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MAF sensor being held above an engine
MAF & Air Intake Cleaning

MAF Sensor Replacement & Post-Replacement Procedures

March 18, 2021 FTE Leave a comment

The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is a vital component in modern vehicle engine management systems, accurately measuring the amount of air entering the engine to ensure the correct air-fuel mixture for optimal performance and emissions. When a MAF sensor fails, it can lead to a range of drivability issues, including rough idle, hesitation, decreased fuel economy, and illuminated check engine lights. While cleaning a dirty MAF sensor can sometimes resolve these problems, there are instances where replacement becomes necessary due to electrical failure, physical damage, or simply the sensor reaching the end of its service life. This comprehensive guide will detail the process of MAF sensor replacement, discuss associated costs, address the feasibility of repair, and outline the crucial post-replacement procedures, such as ECU resetting and code clearing, to ensure your vehicle operates smoothly and efficiently after a new sensor is installed.

Table of Contents ▼
  • MAF Sensor Replacement
  • Tools and Materials Required
  • Step-by-Step Replacement Procedure
  • Important Considerations During Replacement
  • Handle with Care
  • OEM vs. Aftermarket
  • Air Filter Condition
  • MAF Sensor Replacement Cost
  • Parts Cost
  • Labor Cost
  • Total Replacement Cost
  • Can a MAF Sensor Be Repaired?
  • Why Repair is Not Feasible
  • When Cleaning is the “Repair”
  • Limited External Repairs
  • When Replacement is Necessary
  • What to Do After Replacing a MAF Sensor?
  • Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
  • Reset the ECU and Allow for Relearning
  • Verify Proper Operation and Monitor for Issues
  • Check for Air Leaks
  • Conclusion
  • References

MAF Sensor Replacement

Replacing a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is a relatively straightforward procedure that most DIY enthusiasts can perform with basic tools. However, it is crucial to follow the steps carefully to avoid damaging the new sensor or other components. Before beginning, ensure you have the correct replacement MAF sensor for your specific vehicle make, model, and year. Using an incorrect sensor can lead to compatibility issues and persistent performance problems.

Tools and Materials Required

  • New MAF Sensor: Ensure it is an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) or a high-quality aftermarket replacement that matches your vehicle’s specifications.
  • Screwdriver or Socket Wrench Set: To remove the sensor’s mounting screws or bolts.
  • Pliers (optional): For hose clamps, if applicable.
  • Clean Microfiber Cloth: For handling the new sensor and wiping down the area.

Step-by-Step Replacement Procedure

  1. Disconnect the Battery: Safety is paramount when working with automotive electrical systems. Always start by disconnecting the negative terminal of your vehicle’s battery. This prevents accidental short circuits and helps reset the Engine Control Unit (ECU) after the new sensor is installed.
  2. Locate the MAF Sensor: The MAF sensor is typically situated in the air intake duct, positioned between the air filter box and the throttle body. It will have an electrical connector and often be secured by screws or clamps.
  3. Disconnect the Electrical Connector: Carefully unplug the electrical connector from the old MAF sensor. Most connectors have a tab or clip that needs to be pressed, squeezed, or slid to release it. Avoid pulling directly on the wires, as this can damage the wiring harness.
  4. Remove the Old MAF Sensor: The method of removal can vary slightly depending on your vehicle. The sensor might be secured by two small Phillips head screws, Torx screws, or bolts. Use the appropriate tool to loosen and remove these fasteners. If the MAF sensor is integrated into a larger housing, you may need to loosen hose clamps on the intake ducting to remove the entire assembly. Gently pull the old sensor straight out of its housing. Avoid twisting or forcing it.
  5. Inspect the Area: Before installing the new sensor, take a moment to inspect the air intake duct for any debris, cracks, or damage. Ensure the mounting surface is clean and free of obstructions.
  6. Install the New MAF Sensor: Carefully insert the new MAF sensor into its housing. Ensure it is oriented correctly; most sensors are designed to fit only one way. Secure it with the screws or bolts you removed earlier, tightening them snugly but do not overtighten, as this can crack the plastic housing. If you removed an entire housing, reattach the intake ducting and tighten any hose clamps.
  7. Reconnect the Electrical Connector: Plug the electrical connector firmly back into the new MAF sensor until it clicks into place. Double-check that it is securely seated.
  8. Reconnect the Battery: Reconnect the negative terminal of your vehicle’s battery.
  9. Post-Replacement Procedures: After physical installation, it is crucial to perform post-replacement procedures, which typically involve clearing diagnostic trouble codes and allowing the ECU to relearn. These steps are detailed in the following sections.

Important Considerations During Replacement

Handle with Care

MAF sensors are delicate components. Avoid touching the sensing elements with your fingers, as oils and dirt from your skin can contaminate them. Handle the new sensor by its plastic housing.

OEM vs. Aftermarket

While aftermarket sensors can be more affordable, some vehicles are particularly sensitive to MAF sensor readings and may perform best with OEM parts. Research your vehicle’s specific requirements or consult with a trusted mechanic.

Air Filter Condition

A dirty air filter can quickly contaminate a new MAF sensor. It is highly recommended to replace your air filter when replacing the MAF sensor to prevent premature failure of the new sensor.

MAF Sensor Replacement Cost

The cost of replacing a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor can vary significantly depending on several factors, including the vehicle’s make, model, and year, whether you choose an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) or aftermarket sensor, and whether you perform the replacement yourself or have it done by a professional mechanic.

Parts Cost

The cost of the MAF sensor itself can range widely:

  • Aftermarket MAF Sensors: These can typically range from £30 to £150. The price will depend on the brand, quality, and specific vehicle application. While more affordable, the quality and accuracy of aftermarket sensors can vary, and some vehicles are more sensitive to non-OEM parts.
  • OEM MAF Sensors: Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) sensors, purchased directly from the dealership or through authorized parts distributors, are generally more expensive, often ranging from £100 to £300 or more. These parts are identical to the ones installed at the factory and are guaranteed to be compatible with your vehicle.

Labor Cost

If you opt to have a professional mechanic replace your MAF sensor, you will incur labor costs. The labor involved in replacing a MAF sensor is typically minimal, as it’s a relatively quick and easy job. Labor costs are generally estimated to be between £50 and £150. However, this can vary based on the shop’s hourly rate and geographical location.

Total Replacement Cost

Combining parts and labor, the total cost for a professional MAF sensor replacement typically falls within the range of £200 to £500. Some sources indicate an average cost between £450 and £525. In some cases, particularly for luxury vehicles or those with complex engine bays, the cost could be higher, potentially reaching £600 to £900 if additional services like fuel induction cleaning are included.

Estimated MAF Sensor Replacement Costs:

Component Estimated Cost Range (USD)
MAF Sensor (Aftermarket) £30 – £150
MAF Sensor (OEM) £100 – £300+
Labor (Professional) £50 – £150
Total (DIY) £30 – £300+
Total (Professional) £200 – £500 (Average)

It’s always advisable to get quotes from multiple reputable mechanics or dealerships to compare prices before committing to a repair. If you are comfortable with basic automotive repairs, replacing the MAF sensor yourself can significantly reduce the overall cost by eliminating labor charges.

Can a MAF Sensor Be Repaired?

The question of whether a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor can be repaired is a common one, especially given the cost of replacement. Generally, the answer is no, MAF sensors are not designed to be repaired in the traditional sense. Their internal components are highly sensitive and precisely calibrated, making true repair impractical and often impossible for the average mechanic or DIY enthusiast.

Why Repair is Not Feasible

  1. Delicate Sensing Elements: The core of a MAF sensor consists of extremely fine, heated wires or a delicate film. These elements are highly susceptible to damage. If they are physically broken, bent, or otherwise compromised, they cannot be reattached or fixed. Attempting to do so would likely alter their resistance or surface area, leading to inaccurate readings even if a physical connection is re-established.
  2. Sealed Electronic Components: The electronic circuitry within the MAF sensor is typically sealed within the housing to protect it from environmental factors. These components are miniaturized and often integrated into a single unit, making individual component repair or replacement unfeasible without specialized equipment and expertise.
  3. Calibration: MAF sensors are precisely calibrated at the factory to provide accurate airflow readings. Any attempt to open, modify, or repair the internal components would inevitably disrupt this calibration, leading to incorrect data being sent to the ECU, even if the sensor appears to be physically intact.

When Cleaning is the “Repair”

While true repair is not possible, cleaning a MAF sensor is often considered the primary “repair” method for issues caused by contamination. If the sensor is malfunctioning due to a buildup of dirt, oil, or debris on its sensing elements, a thorough cleaning with a specialized MAF sensor cleaner can restore its accuracy and functionality. In these cases, the sensor itself is not faulty; it’s merely obstructed. If cleaning resolves the symptoms, it effectively “repairs” the sensor’s performance without replacing any parts.

Limited External Repairs

In some rare instances, minor external issues might be repairable:

  • Damaged Wiring or Connector: If the problem lies with the external wiring harness leading to the MAF sensor, or with the electrical connector itself (e.g., corroded pins, broken plastic clips), these components can often be repaired or replaced without touching the sensor unit.
  • Loose Mounting: If the sensor is simply loose in its housing, tightening the screws or clamps can resolve the issue, though this is more of a re-installation than a repair.

When Replacement is Necessary

If cleaning the MAF sensor does not resolve the vehicle’s symptoms, or if diagnostic tests confirm an electrical fault or physical damage to the sensing elements, then replacement is the only viable solution. Attempting to “repair” a truly faulty MAF sensor beyond cleaning is generally not recommended and can lead to continued performance problems, frustration, and potentially further damage to the engine or catalytic converter due to persistent incorrect air-fuel mixtures.

In conclusion, while you can’t typically repair the internal components of a MAF sensor, cleaning it is a highly effective first step for contamination-related issues. If cleaning fails, or if there’s clear evidence of electrical or physical damage, replacement with a new, properly functioning sensor is the necessary course of action.

What to Do After Replacing a MAF Sensor?

Replacing a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is often a necessary step to resolve engine performance issues. However, the job isn’t entirely complete once the new sensor is physically installed. Several crucial post-replacement procedures should be followed to ensure the new sensor integrates correctly with the vehicle’s Engine Control Unit (ECU) and that the engine operates optimally. Failing to perform these steps can lead to persistent problems or even new issues arising.

Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)

If the old MAF sensor was faulty, it likely triggered the Check Engine Light (CEL) and stored one or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in the ECU’s memory (e.g., P0100, P0101, P0102, P0103, P0104). After installing the new MAF sensor, these codes must be cleared.

  • Using a Scan Tool: The most effective way to clear DTCs is by using an OBD-II scan tool. Connect the scan tool to your vehicle’s diagnostic port, navigate to the code clearing function, and erase all stored codes. This ensures that the ECU starts fresh with the new sensor and doesn’t continue to operate based on old fault data.
  • Disconnecting the Battery (Alternative): If you don’t have a scan tool, disconnecting the negative battery terminal for about 15-30 minutes can also reset the ECU and clear most stored codes. However, this method might also erase other learned settings in the vehicle, such as radio presets or adaptive transmission settings, and is generally less precise than using a scan tool.

Reset the ECU and Allow for Relearning (Adaptive Learning)

Modern ECUs are adaptive, meaning they learn and adjust fuel trims and other engine parameters over time based on sensor inputs and driving conditions. When a new MAF sensor is installed, the ECU needs to adapt to its specific readings, which might be slightly different from the old, faulty sensor.

  • ECU Reset: Clearing the DTCs (either via scan tool or battery disconnect) often initiates an ECU reset, forcing it to revert to its base programming and begin a new learning cycle.
  • Drive Cycle: After clearing codes and resetting the ECU, the vehicle needs to go through a drive cycle to allow the ECU to relearn optimal fuel trims and other parameters with the new MAF sensor. This typically involves driving the vehicle under various conditions (idle, city driving, highway driving) for a certain period or distance. The exact drive cycle procedure can vary by vehicle manufacturer, but generally, a few days of normal driving should be sufficient for the ECU to adapt.
  • Initial Idle: Some sources suggest letting the engine idle for a few minutes immediately after the reset to allow the ECU to establish baseline idle parameters.

Verify Proper Operation and Monitor for Issues

After performing the above steps, it’s important to verify that the new MAF sensor is functioning correctly and that the original symptoms have been resolved.

  • Test Drive: Take the vehicle for a thorough test drive, paying attention to engine performance, idle quality, acceleration, and fuel economy. Ensure that any previous issues like rough idle, hesitation, or loss of power are gone.
  • Monitor for CEL: Keep an eye on the Check Engine Light. If it remains off after the drive cycle, it’s a good indication that the replacement was successful. If the CEL returns, it may indicate an issue with the new sensor, an incorrect installation, or an underlying problem that was not related to the MAF sensor.
  • Scan Tool Live Data (Optional but Recommended): If you have access to a scan tool, you can monitor the live data from the new MAF sensor. Check the airflow readings (grams per second or pounds per minute) at idle and under various load conditions. Compare these readings to manufacturer specifications or known good values for your vehicle to confirm the new sensor is providing accurate data. Also, monitor short-term and long-term fuel trims to see if the ECU is making excessive adjustments, which could indicate a problem.

Check for Air Leaks

During the MAF sensor replacement, it’s possible that intake hoses or clamps were not reinstalled correctly, leading to unmetered air leaks. After replacement, double-check all connections in the air intake system between the MAF sensor and the throttle body to ensure they are secure and airtight. Air leaks can mimic MAF sensor symptoms and prevent the new sensor from working correctly.

By following these post-replacement procedures, you can ensure that your new MAF sensor integrates seamlessly with your vehicle’s systems, leading to restored engine performance and efficiency.

Conclusion

Replacing a faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is a critical step in restoring your vehicle’s optimal performance, fuel efficiency, and emissions control. While the physical replacement process is relatively straightforward, the post-replacement procedures are equally, if not more, important for ensuring the new sensor integrates seamlessly with your vehicle’s engine management system. Disconnecting the battery, clearing diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) with a scan tool, and allowing the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to relearn its adaptive settings are crucial steps that prevent persistent issues and ensure the engine operates as intended.

It is important to remember that MAF sensors are not typically repairable; if cleaning does not resolve contamination-related problems, replacement is the necessary solution. The cost of replacement can vary, but performing the installation yourself can significantly reduce expenses. Always use a high-quality replacement sensor and ensure your air filter is clean to prevent premature failure of the new component.

By diligently following the replacement and post-replacement procedures outlined in this guide, you can effectively address MAF sensor issues, avoid common pitfalls, and ensure your vehicle returns to its peak operating condition, providing a smoother, more efficient, and reliable driving experience.

References

  1. AutoZone MAF Sensor Replacement Guide
  2. Advance Auto Parts MAF Sensor Guide
  3. Torque360 MAF Sensor Replacement Guide
  4. Blue Star Brothers Post-Replacement Procedures
  5. RepairPal MAF Sensor Cost Estimate
  6. CarParts.com MAF Sensor Information
  7. Parts Geek Air Mass Meter Guide
  8. Car From Japan Post-Replacement Guide
  9. ShopMonkey MAF Sensor Repair Guide
  10. Kelley Blue Book MAF Sensor Costs
Cylinder Plateau Honing
Engine Cleaning & Flushing

How to Break-in, Bed-in, Run-in an Engine – The Definitive Guide

July 30, 2020 FTE 1 Comment

It is almost certain that the user manual of any new vehicle you purchase will stipulate a running-in period, usually 1,000 miles or more. Why is this? Is it even necessary with modern engine’s technological advances and machining techniques?

I’ll answer the second part first – No, not in my professional opinion. I’ll get onto the “why” later.

Going back a few decades, cylinder liners underwent a single-stage honing process that left a crosshatch pattern on the surface of cylinders or cylinder liners. Sharp, jagged edges created by the newly honed surfaces then needed to be removed or smoothed to provide an optimum seal between the piston compression rings and cylinders.

This was best achieved with lower quality, usually mineral-based, engine oil allowing the piston rings to bed in against the cylinder, thus creating a tight seal. This bedding in process, basically “controlled wear of engine components,” included a gradual increase in load and revs on the engine over a period of running hours and miles. This was essential to deliver a good seal and cylinder compression and limit engine oil consumption. The engine oil would be replaced with a higher quality semi or fully synthetic oil with friction modifiers designed to lower friction and reduce further wear.

It is much different now since manufacturers introduced a final stage of the honing process. Referred to as a plateau hone, this finishing process simulates most of an engine run-in by removing the sharp, uneven ridges created by the primary honing process. It guarantees an almost perfect seal from the outset or at least very close. It also enables manufacturers to use high-quality synthetic oils from the factory without a need for running-in oil.

Therefore, in my opinion, any final running-in should ideally be completed promptly and not over 1000+ miles, with a risk of bore glazing resulting in reduced power loss and potential excessive oil consumption.

Cylinder Bore Honing - Engine Break in

Cylinder Plateau Honing

So why do manufacturers still insist on a lengthy running-in period?

I have spoken to numerous professionals on this subject, including a Metallurgy Professor who has worked with vehicle OEMs. There is no definitive answer, but here are my conclusions:

1. Manufacturers may be using the running-in period to mitigate minor machining tolerance issues from the manufacturing/assembly process, which may then be resolved through other bedding-in. However, I believe any underlying fault would likely surface at some point regardless of how an engine is run-in.

2. Even though the engine may not require as much bedding-in, other components such as the drivetrain (manual clutches, auto clutch packs, differentials, etc.) may do so. Then there are brake pads and discs, not forgetting those brand-new tyres. You get the idea.

3. User orientation. Being new, the car is likely to feel very different, and driving more cautiously gives the user time to become more accustomed to the vehicle.

4. Finally, the £ – applicable to BMW M-cars. Every M car owner knows the importance of the 1200-mile running in service, which requires an engine oil and filter change at a minimum. However, even BMW acknowledges that the factory fill oil is the same specification oil used for the 1200-mile run-in service. Oil analysis taken from the initial 1200-mile period has shown minor material wear or insufficient to warrant a change after 1200 miles. It is a nice way to squeeze in a money-making service.

Now we look at the other end of the spectrum. There is a consensus that owners of brand new vehicles should drive them “normally” from new or drive them like they stole them! This is also incorrect. Even though a plateau hone has done a lot of the hard work for you, there is still some work left to do.

This is how I “bed-in” my new cars; none have ever required oil top-ups between services. These include high-performance vehicles such as Audi S and RS models and BMW M cars.
I usually complete the engine run-in within 200 miles, with the first 50 miles being the most critical.

1. MOST IMPORTANT: Bring the engine to FULL operating temperature through everyday driving, allowing the engine to rev freely. Do not lug a brand new engine or leave it idling for an extended period! Where possible, use manual shifting with automatic transmissions to stop it from holding on to high gears and lugging the engine.

2. In the lower gears, particularly 2nd and 3rd, and where safe to do so, accelerate moderately to approximately 2/3 of the rev range and let the vehicle slow down using the engine brake rather than the foot brakes.

3. Repeat this process, slowly increasing the throttle to increase the accelerative effort/engine load. Then, move up to 4th and 5th gear for vehicles with transmissions with seven or more gears. Again, only when safe to do so and remaining respectful to other road users. Drive the car normally for a short while, allowing the engine to cool.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 but increase the revs by approximately 1,000 each time, building up the load and gears until you eventually reach full revs in mid-range gears. Achieving full RPM in top gears is unnecessary to bed-in an engine fully. It is also unsafe on a public road. Full throttle in the mid gears to full RPM and full throttle to a safe RPM in the upper gears is sufficient. It is not an exact science, and 50 miles is sufficient to give you an idea of how much running-in is required.

5. For the remaining 100-150 miles, drive the vehicle normally but occasionally with a full-throttle run in lower-mid to mid gears using the natural engine braking to slow the vehicle down. The engine should now be entirely run in.

I hope this proves helpful. Please read our article “Eradicate Bore Glazing” HERE to correct any existing bore glazing condition.

Bed-inbeddingBreak-inEngineinRun-inrunning
Cylinder Bore Glazing
Engine Cleaning & Flushing

How to Remove Engine Glaze and Restore Cylinder Compression

April 30, 2020 FTE 3 Comments

There are numerous causes of cylinder compression loss. The first is poor engine break-in. If you haven’t already done so, we recommend you read our guide on “Engine Break-in” HERE.

Providing it hasn’t been left too long, and the glazing hasn’t resulted in bore polishing (bore wear), the glaze can be removed and cylinder compression restored. Left untreated, it can result in bore polishing, when the machined hone marks wear away. This can only be corrected by re-honing the cylinder walls.

Engine glaze is a condition where hardened oil deposits fill the asperities in the cylinder hone markings. When this occurs, engine oil has nothing to “grip” onto, so it cannot deliver the necessary lubrication and protection. It also limits the seal between the piston rings and cylinder, resulting in a loss of engine power and excess oil consumption. These hardened deposits cannot be removed with conventional engine flushes.

Restore Cylinder Compression

Cylinder Bore Wear

Another cause is poor oil quality. The oil stock can break down, burn, and create a glaze. This causes combustion gases to blow by the piston rings, contaminating the oil further and thus creating a vicious cycle of oil breakdown. Neglected engines and overused engine oil can also contribute to this.

Bore glazing is particularly prevalent in engines that run idling for extended periods. This includes generators, but the issue is more commonly attributed to marine engines. Removing cylinder glazing will enable the piston rings to re-seat against the liner and ensure the lubricating oil can lubricate and protect as intended.

How do you fix compression loss from suspected bore glazing?

Effective and rapid cleaning is not a simple task. It requires a much stronger and more complex product with chemistry that rapidly cleans while protecting the engine. This is not a job for a cocktail of cheap solvents. Delivering sufficient protection to the engine can be a challenge for conventional de-glazing products to the degree that cleaning performance is compromised. Many rely on the existing engine oil without adding any additional lubricity package.

We recommend Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Flush, which contains unique and powerful cleaning agents within a non-interference, very lubricious, proprietary ester base. This ensures the engine is protected throughout the cleaning cycle to the degree that, under professional use, the vehicle can be driven gently for a short period with ReleaseTech in the engine oil to improve cleaning performance. Cleaning power and engine protection are not compromised.

Cleaning the engine lubricating system

ReleaseTech’s powerful formula not only helps restore engine compression but effortlessly removes deposits from within the engine and sump. Deposits are safely dispersed and held in suspension within the lubricating oil without any risk of blocking oil channels, provided the oil is drained immediately after the cleaning cycle. This will improve efficiency and help extend oil life while reducing excess engine noise and clatter.

ReleaseTech Power Flush will not restore actual engine wear. Still, it remains a cost-effective way of determining if the underlying issue is engine glaze and thus provides a process of elimination before any costly strip-down. If Oilsyn ReleaseTech doesn’t fix it, no other engine-flush product will likely make a difference. Depending on the severity of wear, the engine will require an oil compression/viscosity additive or, worse, a cylinder re-hone.

Customers of ReleaseTech Power Flush report improved engine performance in cases of restored engine compression, quieter running, and engine oil that stays cleaner for longer.

Oilsyn is confident that ReleaseTech Power Flush or Power Cleaner will offer the best chance of restoring lost engine compression, and it comes with a full money-back guarantee if it does not.

ReleaseTech Power Flush can be purchased HERE.

compression restoreengine flushGlaze buster
Fuel Quality

What is the difference between standard and premium (Super) diesel fuel?

January 16, 2017 FTE 7 Comments

I will keep this brief because it is straightforward.

Take any branded diesel fuel. What is the difference between that brand’s standard EN590 diesel and super/premium diesel, for which you pay an extra 8-10p per litre.

1. Higher cetane.  Either by adding 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) cetane improver or using naturally higher cetane base stock.

2. Possibly additional deposit control detergent and lubricant.

That is it. Vehicle owners report additional performance when using “super” diesel due to the improvement in combustion quality from the higher cetane value. 2-EHN is the worldwide recognized and proven standard for raising the cetane value in diesel fuels.

What would your average diesel fuel conditioning additive deliver?

1. Higher cetane.  By using a 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) cetane improver.

2. Lubricity additive.

Higher quality brands may also include the following:

3. Deposit control detergent

4. Water emulsifier

5. Anti-corrosion additive

6. Dispersant and antioxidant to help restore and preserve fuel quality

Other specialist additives can deliver the following:

7. Combustion catalyst enhances combustion quality further and helps keep post-combustion areas clean

8. Cold flow performance (anti wax/gel)

9. Biological contamination removal/prevention (biocide).

So what does this mean?

Virtually all diesel fuel conditioners contain 2-EHN or are 2-EHN based. Even the cheapest, lowest quality 2-EHN-based diesel additives will most likely deliver an improvement. However, we don’t recommend using 2-EHN alone due to its negative effect on fuel lubricity. Ensure any product you use contains an ester fuel lubricant and not fatty acid.

The average price of super/premium diesel is 8 to 10 pence more per litre or £5+ per average diesel tank.  A 2-EHN-based conditioner that uses the same or similar performing ingredients and essentially turns standard diesel into premium fuel will cost between 1 and 3 pence per litre.

I hope that clears up the mystery.

pump fuelshellshell 99tesco 99v-power
Fuel Saving

Fuel Economy Part 2 – What Does Work, Our View

February 4, 2016 FTE 1 Comment

This article concentrates on fuel-saving methods that work. It is based on common sense, significant testing, and experience. If you haven’t already done so, we recommend you read our earlier blog entry, Fuel Economy Part 1 – What Doesn’t Work, Our View by clicking HERE.

General Vehicle Maintenance

If you’re completely disillusioned with magic fuel pills, magnets, and other fuel-saving devices that didn’t work (as expected) or the miles per gallon (MPG) on your vehicle have dramatically reduced, don’t lose hope. Vehicle maintenance plays a crucial role in fuel economy. This is basic but valuable information.

Firstly, check your tire pressure. They should be at the correct pressure for your vehicle, assuming you are using the recommended size wheels and tyres.

If you are serious about saving every ounce of fuel you can, consider changing the tire brand to a good-quality, low-resistance tyre. The lower the resistance, the less the engine has to work, consuming less fuel.

Ensure your vehicle is regularly serviced. You would be surprised by the difference a clean air filter and quality oil will make. It is also possible to change the oil for a lower viscosity, which helps reduce “drag” on the moving components, but this should not be done to the detriment of engine protection, which is the primary function of the oil.

Engine Cleaning

Accumulating deposits on parts such as fuel injectors, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) systems, plenum runners, throttle bodies, pistons, and intake valves significantly impairs engine efficiency. The result is invariably power loss, rough idle, and reduced fuel economy. However, cutting through the tenacious fuel deposits is no ordinary task, and only the best cleaners make a notable difference. Therefore, invest in a high-quality fuel system and engine cleaner.

Remarkably, most vehicle owners wait until encountering running problems or very poor MPG before investing in fuel cleaners or conditioners. We have seen significant MPG increases from simply cleaning the fuel injectors and removing carbon build-up.

Oil Additives

Although we consider this a bit of a minefield, we would be remiss if we didn’t inform you that we have discovered small but tangible gains to be had from oil additives. Gains are not just from reducing friction but also from restoring engine compression by removing deposits from piston rings, cylinder bores, etc. A friend, a Metturugy Professor and researcher at Cranfield Univerisity, once told us that the most critical friction area is between the compression rings and cylinder liner.

These are safe gains, we might add, but please tread with caution as it is true that there is a lot of rubbish on the market. Do your research, but in the meantime, if you require a recommendation for a particular vehicle/application, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Engine Chipping / Re-mapping / ECU Re-flash / Tuning Modules

The fourth way to improve MPG is to remap the vehicle. This is achieved by altering the fuel and/or ignition timing and other parameters, such as turbo pressure, within the engine control unit (ECU) or using a piggyback tuning module.

Although results can vary widely, this can be a very effective and safe way of improving MPG if you know where to go and who to trust. Depending on the vehicle and the mapping quality, improvements of up to five percent can be achieved.

Driving Style

For our tips on how your driving style can improve fuel economy click HERE.

car chipecuecu remapengine chipengine chippingFuel Economyfuel saverfuel saversgas savergas saversimprove mpgincrease gas mileageincrease mpgmpgreduce fuel coststuning boxtuning boxestuning module
Fuel Saving

Fuel Economy Part 1 – What Doesn’t Work, Our View

February 1, 2016 FTE 1 Comment

This article is Part 1 of a two-part series. Here, we will cover supposed fuel-saving products that, in practice, fail to deliver on their promises. We recommend you read this before reading Part 2, which focuses on fuel-saving ideas that work.

Oh no, yet another report on fuel economy. We understand how you might feel like you’ve heard it all before. But hold on, we promise you something different – views and experience from industry professionals and, perhaps more importantly, some common sense! Fuel economy, fuel savings, improved miles per gallon (MPG), and the use of fuel savers and similar devices are subjects we are regularly asked for advice on, hence the need for us to provide an overview of our experience on what we have tried and tested.

The results are interesting but not all that surprising. So we’ll give you the facts concerning fuel additives and fuel-saving devices and how they relate to MPG improvements.

Firstly, we will concentrate on fuel-saving products that have failed to increase MPG. We have either tried them ourselves or had access to independent test results.

Although it can be argued that the most accurate tests are performed in laboratory-controlled conditions, they are not always an accurate representation of actual life results, and most of our readers are not scientists. Instead, we prefer to test the various products using real-life driving and not dynameters or similar measuring devices. Besides, an attempt to prove a product works on paper as tested by an “independent” lab means nothing if the results cannot be replicated on the road, as this is where it matters. We use regular commuting routes to provide an honest assessment when comparing MPG figures.

The Mystic World of Fuel Pills

A company called Fuel Freedom International flooded the Internet with a “magical” gas pill promising ultra-high fuel economy. We tested this pill on our Audi A6 and Toyota for a total of five full fuel tanks on consistent, regular commutes. It resulted in a random fuel deviation of approximately +/- 1.5 mpg over the original MPG (A6 – 38 MPG and MR2 – 27 MPG), consistent with what we would typically expect, hence no gain.

The claims were further tested, but positive results were not forthcoming. The company’s explanation was that “the pill will kick in after burning several tanks of fuel.” But how many? Nobody had an answer. We considered five tanks for two months more than sufficient for our testing.

Another Texas company launched a hyper campaign promoting a fuel pill that could bring about almost 20 percent fuel savings and reduce emissions significantly when added to a tank of fuel. We tried this too and it didn’t work. Researchers also tested the product at the University of Texas at Austin and a Florida university. I know I said earlier that we weren’t going to concentrate on lab tests, but it is merely to make the point that the results were negative in both types of tests. Unfortunately, this pill turned out to be nothing more than a chemical equivalent of naphthalene. It had nothing to do with improving MPG; rather, it hurt engine performance. As a result, the company later had its assets frozen in a lawsuit.

We have refrained from providing detailed results on all the pills we have tried or providing details on journeys, times, MPG, etc. This is simply because there is nothing to report other than no discernible difference on our diesel or petrol test vehicles or from tests conducted by other independent bodies. We have not yet seen any scientific or empirical data that proves any of them work, although we wish we had because it would be much more interesting to write about!

Standalone Fuel Magnets

Unlike fuel pills, fuel magnets have been around for years. Manufacturers claim a “change to the molecular structure of gasoline by aligning the hydrocarbons” that, in turn, improves fuel efficiency.

Again we will not delve into too much detail, but needless to say, we tried and tested a variety of fuel magnets on both diesel and petrol test vehicles.

We can’t help but agree that the negativity surrounding these types of devices is founded. For example, a fuel magnet hit the headlines in 2005, claiming to improve mileage by 27 percent when added to the fuel line. This multimillion-dollar affair was investigated and discovered to be bogus. Later, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) sued the company, which then agreed to pull its ads.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) evaluated these products and rubbished their claims. Vested interests aside, if it had been possible to lower fuel consumption by placing a magnet in the fuel line, everybody in this cunningly competitive world would have done so, whether subjected to vested interests or not.

There are many other explanations of how magnets work in fuel lines. The “alignment” theory does have merit, but executing the process to “refine” the fuel is easier said than done.

The Problem of False Claims

Companies making claims about their fuel-saving pills and magnets is a global phenomenon.

An Australian company marketed a pill that promised to slash fuel costs by up to 42 percent. The Consumer Protection Department successfully prosecuted the company for false advertising.

For their part, the FTC endorses neither fuel pills nor fuel magnets. The blatant dismissal of all these fuel-efficiency claims is simply due to one fact – none of the claims are verified by unbiased research and/or controlled testing! All are based on individual testimonials, many being nothing more than words written by the suppliers.

But what about the many legitimate testimonials from customers? I have what we believe to be a reasonable explanation of this, one I have experienced firsthand. The most common explanation, and one that is completely valid, is that driving style, climate conditions, fuel quality variations, and other factors contribute to inconsistent MPG and fuel emissions.

Although these are vital factors, we believe there is a more significant underlying reason. Let us explain. One of the first tests I did many years ago with a fuel magnet netted an increase in fuel efficiency of nine percent on a weekly 600-mile round-trip commute for the first tank. The second tank earned approximately five percent and the third about two percent. Why?

After racking our brains, I finally figured out what had occurred, and it was a vital lesson. When you spend your hard-earned money on a product of this nature, you want it to work. This is a standard psychological phenomenon. It is human nature that people do not want to be wrong or proven wrong. Again, this is a psychological defense mechanism.

What occurred was that for the first tank, I was unwittingly trying to obtain the best MPG improvement possible and, as a result, ended up driving much smoother than I would normally. I would seldom reach excessive speed and would brake much smoother. The MPG improved as a result. I know this appears obvious, if not simple, but you would be surprised how many people do this without fully realizing it.

As I gradually returned to regular driving routines, the MPG gain deteriorated. I guess this does, after all, support a need for lab-based testing. However, since that original test, we have carefully ensured that we maintain our regular driving style during any future testing.

Blind tests are the perfect way to mitigate this issue.  When advising fleet operators, we emphasize the importance of blind testing and treating fuel without notifying the drivers.

It is unfortunate, but it is the way of the world that “miracle” fuel savers are out to lure you with unbelievable claims. We strongly advise that you be realistic. We certainly are not so naive to think there isn’t much-vested interest in this market because there is. However, we are not gullible enough to believe that fuel magnets, fuel pills, copper tubing devices, air intake enturbulation gadgets, and other wacky gimmicks deliver as promised. Neither should you.

So with all this negativity, what, if anything, does improve MPG?

Click HERE to read “Fuel Economy Part 2 – What Does Work, Our View,” to find out.

Fuel Economyfuel saverfuel saversgas savergas saversimprove mpgincrease gas mileageincrease mpgmpgreduce fuel costs
Fuel Saving

How to Improve MPG – Driving Style

January 24, 2016 FTE 1 Comment

Improving Miles Per Gallon (MPG) Via Driving Style

1. Don’t drive too fast or accelerate too hard. Wind resistance increases drastically with increasing speed. Studies show that every time you increase your speed by 10 miles per hour, you lose as much as 15 percent in fuel economy. So slow down and be a fuel-efficient, safe, and relaxed driver.

2. Try moving into high gears as much as possible without lugging the engine. When the revs are lower, fuel usage lowers. This means more economy for you.

3. Avoid accelerating when moving up a slope, such as a hill. If you increase your speed up a hill, the MPG will decrease dramatically.  It’s best to maintain the same speed or allow the engine to slow naturally.

4. Anticipate stops and brake less. Every time you brake, you waste the car’s energy by cutting down the forward-moving force and transforming it into force acting through the brake pads. Accelerate slowly and stop naturally at the anticipated points by taking advantage of engine braking. Avoid braking at the last moment, which may force you to accelerate unnecessarily.

5. Don’t waste fuel by keeping your vehicle idling for long. Cars seldom require prolonged warming—in fact, it can do more harm than good. Prolonged warming can prevent a natural acid build-up from dispersing from the piston rings, resulting in increased engine wear. Driving gently is the best warm-up there is. When it’s 25°C degrees out, warming up for 30 seconds is fine. If it’s 10°C degrees out, a minute warm-up is OK.

6. Drive light. Removing excess weight from your vehicle improves your gas mileage. Any unnecessary items you can remove from your vehicle, especially heavy ones, will help you to save on gas mileage.  For example, consider a roof rack. You waste about 5 percent in MPG efficiency when you have one of these on your vehicle.

7. Don’t misuse or overuse the A/C. When it’s pleasant outside, feel nature instead of shutting yourself in and burning extra fuel by keeping the air-conditioning equipment on.  If A/C is necessary, ensure the recycle air button is on so that the A/C is not overworked by cooling incoming warm air.

While some of these seem like simple solutions, they are too often forgotten as we rush through life. By following these tips, you can save money and make fewer stops at the fuel pump.

Driving stylefuel saversfuel savinggas saversmpg
Reducing Emissions

How to Reduce Vehicle Emissions

January 5, 2016 FTE 4 Comments

All vehicles produce emissions as fossil fuel is burned and converted into energy. Unfortunately, like most other emissions, these usually end up in the atmosphere.

The damage to the environment and the planet’s population is evident. Emissions mainly comprise carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides, and hydrocarbons, which create numerous problems. They cause smog, acid rain, and health problems and allegedly deplete the layer in the atmosphere that protects us from the sun’s direct rays. Personally, having researched both sides of the argument, I am not entirely sold on the arguments for global warming. But the damage to people’s health is genuine and does concern me.

Trace elements in fossil fuels have harmful effects, too. Sulphur and heavy metals cannot be eliminated entirely during refining. When fuel is not fully combusted, these emissions become a danger to health.

You can take steps as an individual to ensure that your contribution to these emissions is minimized. Poor maintenance and a fuel system and engine made inefficient due to deposit build-up are significant contributors to excess emissions. Using higher quality fuels and/or regular fuel treatments/conditioners can help ensure these areas – as well as the components designed to neutralize or capture emissions – are clean and function efficiently. This includes the catalytic converter and diesel particulate filters for most diesel vehicles that now have them. By tending to these areas, we can help keep harmful engine emissions to a minimum.

Ensure engine sensors, particularly those contributing to air/fuel ratio calculations, have not degraded.  Dirty airflow sensors, in particular, reduce combustion efficiency and increase exhaust emissions.

There are cars available in the market today that are designed to be more environmentally friendly, such as hybrids. These cannot be ignored if you are serious about reducing car emissions. However, the actual benefits of electric or partly electric vehicles are widely debated. Some argue that the harmful emissions that are prevented are negated by the cost of manufacturing and later decommissioning the battery cells for these vehicles.

In addition to better maintenance and vehicle alternatives, behavioral changes also can reduce emissions. It’s a tough bullet to chew, but have you ever considered driving less? Why should you drive everywhere if you can walk or cycle there? It’s a serious point that we all should consider. Even carpooling or using public transportation can help cut emissions by having fewer vehicles on the road.

What do you do when you are caught in traffic? Most people just let their engines idle and continue using fuel to create emissions. The best thing to do is switch it off altogether. Car emissions peak at rush hour, so if more people turned off their engines, there would be considerably less pollution. BMW officials, for their part, are addressing this issue with their Auto Start Stop function, which automatically turns off a vehicle when it comes to a complete halt and then restarts it automatically when it is time to move. In time the problem caused by idling will likely become moot as most other manufacturers incorporate similar features.

While buying a new vehicle or walking to work might not be an option for you, there are steps you can take to reduce the emissions you create. And it can be as simple as keeping your engine clean.

As mentioned earlier, fuel system and engine deposits considerably increase car emissions. The engine’s efficiency is reduced as the flow pattern deteriorates on fuel injectors. As a result, more hydrocarbons are produced, depositing carbon in the combustion and post-combustion areas such as the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. This reduces efficiency further and results in even more car emissions. It’s a dwindling spiral, and ‘before and after’ emissions tests demonstrate the improvements made by cleaning the fuel system.

While some fuels are marketed as having cleaning properties, they don’t use fuel catalyst chemistry to prevent deposit build-up, even with the latest fuel-efficient engines. The answer is to use professional treatments regularly to keep the fuel system and engine free of deposits.

For more information on treatments to keep your fuel system and engine clean, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

car emissionsdiesel emissionsemissionsgas emissionsvehicle emissions
Octane Boosters
Oil Additives

Oil Additives – Our View

September 2, 2015 FTE 26 Comments

Oil additives have long been a controversial subject that haunts the oil and automobile industries, their respective stakeholders, and – perhaps most significantly – the consumer. Thanks to a fair amount of negativity toward oil additives, they have often been labeled as doing more harm than good.

Numerous studies have been published by oil companies, car makers, and oil standards organizations disputing the value of additives and exposing the so-called risks of additive usage in engine oils. There is so much speculation pervading the market, particularly in Internet forums, that an automobile owner might become confused about whether it is necessary to use additives in their vehicle. This article attempts to regain accurate context and clarity on this taboo subject.

Oil is a multi-billion dollar global industry. Two of the essential attributes of this industry are stiff competition and hectic infighting for the protection of vested interests. The engine oils these companies sell conform to international specifications like SAE and API. The main motive with which these companies operate is obviously profit. However, it’s not a profit-at-any-cost situation. The quality of the product is also very important because that’s what can give a company an edge in capturing and retaining a sizeable market share. So, most oil companies invariably try to market good quality engine oil that optimizes performance and ensures longer engine life.

But – that all said – how eager are these oil companies to make the perfect oil? Do they make the best quality oil? The answer is undoubtedly a big ‘NO.’ Let’s see why this is so. First, the expression “best quality” is entirely relative. One oil might be suitable for a particular engine type but not for another. Moreover, there is no such end-goal specification, only set regulatory standards.

Research is unfolding new possibilities almost every day. In this highly dynamic situation, it is quite possible for an oil brand that is an excellent quality today to get replaced by a more efficient substitute tomorrow. Therefore, there is nothing sacrosanct about the best quality oil. Second and most important, oil companies would never make the “ultimate” oil, even if it was theoretically possible. Why? Because that runs counter to their business interests. Optimum quality oil can mean more shelf-life and less replacement, and this will obviously make their markets take a beating. It is, therefore, a natural conclusion that oil companies do not make – rather do not endeavor to make – the best quality oil. It’s in their business interest to promote marketing and strategic associations to earn more money rather than devote resources for quality optimization.

There are interesting examples of this. A well-known, worldwide oil manufacturer (renowned for their quality, fully synthetic oils) spends more on marketing than on research, development, and production put together! Another well-known petroleum supplier now owns the rights to Slick 50. Despite the many complaints and legal cases that have surfaced, and the brand has been notorious for tarnishing the oil additives market, this supplier purchased the rights to Slick 50 and continues to sell this product today. Why? Because it still makes money! For clarification, we do not endorse Slick 50 or recommend any PTFE-based additives for engine use.

The conglomerate of major oil manufacturers, standards institutions, and regulatory bodies has invested too much in the status quo (group III base stocks, decades-old ZDDP additives, etc.). And when you combine this with a market that is not yet demanding more modern (nano) additive technologies, many oil manufacturers have little interest in providing higher-quality lubricants. The latest base stocks (group V PAOs, group VI Esters, OSPs, higher performing additive pack ingredients, etc.) are currently reserved and used by the smaller boutique oil companies rather than the mainstream brands.

Stipulated specifications (ACEA, SAE, API, etc.) lead to many oils that are inferior by design. For example, improving the base stock or additive technology can result in oil that, although superior, is now “out of spec.” This includes full, mid and low-SAPS oils. Now consider the current ash measurement test. Not all sulfated ash is harmful to the DPF. Certain types of ash are beneficial and help diesel particulate filters catalyze carbons. The current ash test can only determine ash content and not differentiate between good and bad. This is a significant handicap to the engine oil quality for most diesel engines that require mid- to low-SAPS lubricants.

It’s not hard to accept that these oil companies make oil surpassing the basic quality specifications set by various accredited agencies. However, it is not in their financial interests to exceed these specifications, even if given the freedom to do so. This means you are likely buying good oil that you can rely on for good performance and protection but not necessarily the best oil for peak performance, protection, or deposit control. Deposit build-up is now a huge issue for manufacturers and consumers, particularly for direct injection engines. Many oils are not good enough, and progress is hindered by having to abide by outdated specifications.

This naturally keeps one issue in focus—oil quality can be improved to optimize performance, deliver peak output, reduce deposit formation in the engine, intake, EGR, and so on.

Engine oil has two main components – base stock and an additive package. The bulk of the oil – nearly 70 to 95 percent – comprises base fluid(s), with the rest being the additives. The additive chemicals add value to the positive qualities and minimize the impact of the negative attributes of the base stock. Base stocks are of two main types, petroleum and synthetic. Crude oil, in its purified form, is the petroleum base stock. Petroleum has been in use since the earliest development and application of lubricants to the moving parts of an engine. On the other hand, synthetic base stocks are made in the laboratory. Specific chemicals that correspond to different functions are used to meet performance requirements. Synthetic base stocks are thus very much use-specific. Although they came to be known in the 1900s, they became prominent in the automobile industry in the 1970s. Further information on oil composition can be found in our article, “What’s in Engine Oils?”

So, if additives are essentially in oil from the outset, why is there so much controversy in fortifying existing oil with additional additives? For one, oil companies are likely considering how profits would be affected by selling longer-lasting oils and realizing it’s not a good business decision. Second, some argue that additional additives would upset the carefully selected blend of existing additives.

In reality, selecting the appropriate constituents for the additives and their blending is very expensive. The end product would be costlier if the oil companies invested substantially to create better oils. Again, we return to the fact that oils only need to comply with the regulatory performance criteria in a given country. There is no general need for an oil company to spend money over-engineering an additive pack. Instead, this effort is saved for their more exclusive customers, like high-profile motor racing teams.

The car manufacturers create another blockage. They refuse to honor the warranty obligations if oils with additives are used in their manufactured engines. It’s profit that’s uppermost in everybody’s mind. When a car manufacturer makes an engine, they expect it to have a certain lifespan, on average. Their business is certainly compromised if they run longer than expected thanks to excellent engine oils charged with appropriate additives. So naturally, they would discard the idea of using such products that give engines a longer life than is needed.

Furthermore, unscrupulous individuals in the marketplace insist on selling additives that claim ultimate protection or unrealistic gains in miles per gallon. This is unfortunate as it has somehow resulted in the unreasonable deduction by some misinformed people – usually self-claimed “experts” that frequent the Internet forums – that if additives were any good, manufacturers would include them in their oil. The answer is they do, but usually in small (lower cost) quantities that leave much room for improvement.

From all this heat, one thing emerges: additives have a positive role in enhancing engine oil quality. And only intensive research by credible companies with limited vested interests can improve engine oil quality and find more cost-effective ways to improve engine performance and increase engine life.

Our advice is to do your research before considering adding an additive to your engine oil. Check the ethical standing of the manufacturer and search the Internet for product reviews. We also welcome you to contact us directly if you require a recommendation for your particular vehicle or application. Sometimes, and depending on your requirements, your chosen oil may not need fortifying.

oil additives
DPF Cleaning & Maintenance

Your Guide to DPF Cleaners and DPF Cleaning

May 14, 2015 FTE 116 Comments

DPF Cleaners and DPF Cleaning – The Definitive Guide

This is the second iteration of this article. It has been updated to reflect the common problems encountered when tackling what are understood to be DPF blockages.

In this article, we will address the following questions:

  1. What is a DPF?
  2. Why do DPFs clog up?
  3. Misdiagnosis and related common faults.
  4. Reasons why a DPF cleaner may not work for you?
  5. The correct logical steps to diagnose and fix a DPF blockage.

What is a DPF?

A DPF or Diesel Particulate Filter is a device integral to the operation of the exhaust emission control system. It captures particulate matter and hydrocarbons and stores them. Every so often, a regeneration process occurs where these deposits and particulates are burned off, converted to CO2, and vented out the exhaust.

Why do DPFs clog up? There are several contributing factors.

The first is the quality of the fuel. The second is the quality of the engine oil, and the third is the driving style and journey type. Diesel engines are not designed for short journeys or stop-start driving; such conditions create excess particulate matter in the emission control components. That means the DPF and other parts such as the EGR and catalytic convertor have more particulate waste to deal with.

The issue arises when the engine produces more particulate matter than the DPF can handle. Various symptoms may become evident such as engine hesitation or power loss. Eventually, an engine warning light informs you there’s an issue with the system, and if not resolved, the vehicle is put into a “limp home” mode, with reduced power.

If the system is clogged excessively, it is common for the ECU to prevent further regeneration. This is very lucrative for some dealerships and garages because, in their view, you have to replace the DPF, which can run four figures in cost. I can tell you categorically that the DPF can be cleaned unless it has failed catastrophically, even if it’s 100% saturated and the vehicle will barely run at idle. It can also be cleaned even if the ECU will no longer force a regeneration cycle with the help of diagnostic software. Furthermore, modern cleaning techniques and technology mean that the DPF does not have to be removed to be thoroughly cleaned but more on that later.

It is important to note that particulate matter that accumulates in the DPF is NOT just from the fuel and the combustion process. It’s usually a combination of those elements and engine oil. Oil can be blown through the crankcase breather system, but more commonly (on a diesel engine), it bypasses the piston rings and is poorly combusted. Those particulates then accumulate in the DPF. This is the reason you have mid-SAP and low-SAP oils. The theory is that such oils have lower ash content, which gives the DPF an easier life. In some cases, high ash content can damage the DPF because it cannot combust those types of particulates. Our experience differs from this as higher ash oils can prevent oil from being bypassed in the first place. However, that is a different subject for another day.

Resolving a Blocked DPF

Firstly, one of the most common mistakes is misdiagnosis. An emission control warning light or even a DPF warning light does NOT ALWAYS mean the DPF is blocked. This is much more common than you think, so do not assume the DPF must be blocked if your vehicle produces a DPF warning light.

For Example:

  1. Emission warning lights are generally shared across the entire emission control system, so an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve fault or similar can be the root cause of what first appears to be a DPF issue.
  2. One of the most common faults is that the Pressure Differential Sensor that calculates the saturation level and reports an over-saturation condition to the ECU could be faulty. In other words, the DPF is fine, but the sensor reports excess carbon and prevents a regeneration cycle. These sensors should be one of the first things checked, but they are often ignored. The result is an unhappy customer as the cleaning product or process “didn’t work.” It probably did, but the sensor is just reporting otherwise.
  3. The ECU has identified the pressure sensor as faulty, which needs to be replaced rather than the DPF cleaned.

Secondly, and more important than the first, there MUST be an underlying reason for a DPF blockage if, in fact, it is actually blocked. The underlying causes should be established and, where possible, addressed accordingly.

For Example:

  1. Fuel system deposits resulting in inefficient combustion can produce more carbonaceous matter than the DPF can manage. This can also apply to oil of low quality or incorrect specification. Is the engine consuming oil?
  2. Driving style and journey types. Certain conditions must be met to enable the DPF to regenerate and manage the carbon build-up. Continuous low RPMs, stop/start driving, and short journeys that do not permit the engine and DPF to reach full operating temperature will eventually take their toll.
  3. Other underlying faults, such as an injector or EGR issue, could prevent the DPF from regenerating. The ECU recognizes an underlying fault and “locks out” or prevents DPF regeneration cycles.
  4. As mentioned above, the pressure differential sensor is faulty, misreading the level of backpressure between the front and rear of the DPF. The saturation level is only 10%, yet the sensor calculates 50% = game over until the sensor is replaced.

Therefore, as best as you can, it is essential to establish if there is a DPF blockage and if there is, or there is a high probability that there is, to identify the root cause(s). If not, you will be fighting a losing battle.

This is why fuel-based DPF cleaners and professional DPF cleaning are so hit and miss. Many users fail to diagnose and/or address the root cause correctly.

If a fuel-based DPF cleaner did not “work” then there is a good chance that the actual fault is not directly DPF related or that an underlying problem is forcing you into a lose-lose position. It is not always as straightforward as many make out, but I will make it as easy as possible.

Logical Steps to Resolving Suspected DPF Issues

STEPS ACTION APPROX. COSTS
1.       Simple If you suspect the DPF is blocked, then before you spend a penny on diagnostics or treatments, do this: Get the vehicle up to the full operating temperature, drive down the road and drop a couple of gears to get the engine revs above 3-3.5k. In other words, try to force a DPF regen. Free other than the cost of fuel
2.       Basics If the above fails, you need to choose to use a fuel-based cleaner and/or investigate further. If using a cleaner, then combine it with step 1. It is a reasonable low-cost process of elimination. I would recommend a high-strength fuel system and engine cleaner first before using a dedicated DPF Cleaner OR use a fuel cleaner with a combined DPF cleaning function. A basic OBD / CAN BUS code reader can be purchased for as little as £10-£20. I recommend everyone keeps one in their car. If warning lights are visible, then the ECU will have stored codes, and rather than blindly guessing, you are well on your way to correctly diagnosing the issue or any underlying problems. If the codes indicate a DPF saturation issue, then this may be enough to justify using a high-quality fuel cleaner and/or dedicated DPF cleaner. The rationale for using a fuel cleaner first is that it will ensure the fuel system is clean (a common underlying fault) while also helping to clean the DPF by restoring combustion efficiency. Many fuel system cleaners and carbon removers also include catalyst technology that will actively remove carbon from the DPF anyway. Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need help interpreting error codes or advice on the correct product choice. High-Quality Fuel Cleaner – £20Code Reader – £10+Dedicated DPF Cleaner or combined Fuel and DPF Cleaner- £20+
3.       Professional Diagnosis – Basic If you don’t have a code reader, then a diesel specialist will be able to read the codes for you, leaving you with the choice to attempt the fuel cleaner-based route should the codes point to a genuine DPF blockage issue. If the Technician has the correct diagnostics tool, they should be able to attempt to force a regeneration cycle either on its own or aided by an in-tank DPF cleaner. Basic Code Reading – £20+Forced Regen – £30+
4.       Professional Diagnosis – FULL A full diagnosis should include a full error code check and a test of the pressure differential sensor and other emissions control components that can create an apparent DPF issue. Basically, you want to confirm if the DPF is genuinely blocked, and if so, why?   Or the technician needs to identify the underlying fault(s) creating the warning lights. If it looks like a DPF blockage, the first step is for the technician to attempt to force a regen cycle via the diagnostics tool.   This is by far the cheapest fix before professional cleaning or worse, DPF removal. Complete Diagnosis – £60+Plus any remedial treatment/repair costs.
5.       Professional DPF Clean If other underlying faults have been ruled out, a DPF blockage correctly diagnosed, and a fuel system cleaner plus DPF cleaner hasn’t worked. A professional clean would be the next logical step. Our recommendation would be a professional DPF Cleaning Kit.   These are professional use products, so you will need to find a participating garage. This is a non-invasive process and is fully guaranteed. The garage will require the correct equipment to reset the DPF and, where necessary, force regeneration once cleaned. Professional DPF Clean £200+

Further information:

In many cases, using a professional fuel system and carbon cleaner to ensure that the fuel system and injectors operate without deposits can be more important than using a dedicated DPF cleaner. Not only will a fuel system cleaner help clean the DPF anyway, but it will eliminate one of the most common contributory factors (dirty injectors) that, if not resolved, will allow the DPF to clog up again soon after. For this, we recommend the new Oilsyn Diesel Dr and DPF & Turbo or Archoil AR6400-D MAX.

You can use a generic cleaner that relies on the natural scavenging and cleaning mechanism (as described in the EGR cleaning article), or you can utilize one of the higher-end cleaners that use molecules activated during the combustion process (catalysts). These molecules bond with the hydrocarbons in the DPF and reduce the threshold temperature at which they can burn. By far, the best we have tested is the Oilsyn DPF & Turbo Dr.  It contains chemistry comprising of carbon-removing molecules that are activated during the combustion process rather than destroyed like most fuel additives. This type of DPF cleaner combined with a spirited drive (or dropping down a gear) to create more heat will help to clean the DPF much more thoroughly. In genuine DPF blockage cases, these cleaners have some of the highest success rates of any DPF cleaning additives we have tested, reducing the saturation percentage, removing the engine warning light, and enabling passive regeneration.

It’s important to point out that heat is vital when removing carbon. So, using such a cleaner for short journeys will inhibit results. You have to combine them with a longer run and a driving style that permits the temperature within the DPF and the system in general to increase.

Suppose passive regeneration is not restored and the cleaner is not working. In that case, the DPF is oversaturated to the point that the ECU will not permit a regeneration cycle, the issue has been misdiagnosed, or another factor is restricting DPF regeneration. DPF regen could be locked out by the ECU rendering the system inoperable. It is also possible to have a vehicle so saturated that the back pressure is restricted so much that it will barely idle. For this, the DPF needs to be cleaned directly by a professional.

Professional Cleaning

It usually consists of a 2 step cleaning process that must be administered by a professional. The first of this series is sprayed directly in the DPF through the pressure sensor hose. The chemical bonds with the carbon to dissolve it and prepares for the next stage.

The second step involves holding high revs to burn off the carbon for a few minutes, followed by a flushing solution administered through the same hose. This removes any residual cleaning agents and deposits.

We recommend finding a garage local to you for this type of clean.

Maintaining a Clean DPF

Once the DPF is clean, it’s equally important to ensure that the particulates remain at a manageable level. I’ve already mentioned the importance of a professional fuel system cleaner to restore efficiency in the fuel injectors. I’d also recommend an ongoing fuel additive with a fuel catalyst or combustion modification technology, such as Oilsyn Diesel Power DNA or Archoil AR6900-D MAX. They will lower the number of hydrocarbons created in the first place. They reduce the threshold temperature at which the fuel is burned even when the engine is cold. So, even from the moment you start the engine, you’ll be producing fewer hydrocarbons. This is critical if your vehicle is just used for local trips (shopping runs, school runs, etc.). It gives the DPF a much easier life and will reduce its tendency to become oversaturated in the future. We have many reports from consumers and fleet owners that their vehicles regenerate much less when using Diesel Power DNA.  The key is to keep the carbon production at a manageable level for the emission control system, and such additives achieve this.

Excessive Oil contamination

If the engine consumes oil, then unburnt oil can contaminate the DPF. During the next oil change, use a professional engine oil flush to restore lost compression, such as Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Flush. As deposits build up on the piston rings, they push the rings away from the bore, thus allowing oil to bypass the rings and enter the combustion area. Once that happens, the DPF has to cope with an influx of particulates and more buildup.

Then use a high-quality oil and/or oil additive to retain correct compression and prevent any future deposit build-up. For this, we recommend any genuine synthetic oils (group IV or better) and/or Oilsyn Velosyn or Archoil AR9200 V2. This will keep the piston rings and bores clean and reduce the amount of oil entering the intake. Combine this with a fuel additive, and there’s no reason the DPF cannot outlive the vehicle itself without the need to use dedicated DPF cleaning procedures (invasive or otherwise).

I hope that helps. If you require any assistance, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

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Engine Tuning & Mapping

ECU Remapping and the Inadequate Preparation

April 30, 2015 FTE 2 Comments

There is now a multitude of companies that will remap the ECU on your vehicle. In most cases, this entails plugging a computer into the diagnostics port on your vehicle that directly communicates with the ECU. A technician reads the existing file on the ECU and overrides it with a new file. The new file has on it adjusted parameters that alter several characteristics of the engine. These include the amount of turbo boost pressure (if applicable), the fueling and ignition timing (if on a gasoline vehicle), and other such parameters.

After remapping a diesel engine, the exhaust’s smoke increases, particularly on heavy acceleration. Where you once had a small amount of smoke from your exhaust, you now have a problem with a severe amount of smoke. Any underlying running issues can be exacerbated with an engine remap. One thing that surprises me tremendously is that many companies do not carry out a health check. Many remap servicers are mobile; they do not have the necessary tools, equipment, or expertise to precheck the vehicle. As far as I have researched, barely any of them ensure that the fuel system is running correctly and that there isn’t an excess of carbon buildup.

If you push the engine by asking it to work harder and produce more power, you must ensure that you have the best platform to remap and gain that additional performance. To guarantee this, the first thing we advise is to carry out a health check. Make sure there are no error codes. Then combine the remap with a professional fuel system cleaner and carbon remover. The fuel system must be running efficiently before you remap your vehicle. On a petrol engine, it is essential that the ignition components, the ignition system, and the fuel system are performing optimally to maximize the benefits gained from a remap.

Wherever you go to have your vehicle remapped or chipped, ensure the service includes the necessary checks. Also, ensure you use a high-quality fuel system cleaner, particularly if your exhaust has any excess smoke. If you have extra smoke, I strongly advise resolving or checking the issue before performing a remap as it is likely to make it worse.

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Engine Tuning & Mapping

Why are ECU / Engine Remaps and Tuning Boxes so Effective?

April 30, 2015 FTE 10 Comments

When one purchases a vehicle, they likely expect engine ECUs to be optimally mapped prior to sale. While they are typically very well mapped, it is subjective whether or not it is done optimally.

In this article, I will look at engine/ECU remapping and chipping and the use of tuning boxes. I will explain why remapping works and, in most cases, why it is safe.

With most manufacturing, compromises have to be made. ECU maps are no different. Yes, manufacturers invest a great deal of time in engine tuning and testing in the harshest climates. However, tuning criteria are designed around extremes that do not necessarily fit the requirements of the average customer or where the vehicle will be used.

Manufacturers must adhere to and comply with various legislative constraints surrounding emissions and other parameters set by the different governing bodies. As a result, this may affect the quality of factory ECU maps regarding available performance and/or MPG.

Many manufacturers produce vehicles in their range that, to some degree, compete with each other and, in some cases, even share the same engine. For example, a VW Golf may share the same engine as a VW Polo or a Porsche Boxter competing with the Porsche 911. The point is that it would be marketing suicide for a Porsche 911 to be considered slower than its younger brother. As a result, some engines are intentionally detuned or, let’s say, not tuned to their full potential.

Furthermore, manufacturers are obligated to tune vehicles for wildly varying conditions, i.e., -40 to +130 degrees or very high altitudes where the air is much thinner. This is one of the reasons why engines run rich from the factory. It accommodates dramatic climatic conditions that the average driver will never see. Even with the latest technology in fuel and ignition control, compromises on engine tune still have to be made just in case the vehicle is used in such conditions.

Vehicles need to survive the factory warranty period without fault. For example, it’s not uncommon to find an engine that is detuned for torque output to ensure that the drivetrain doesn’t fail. This begs the question: Why would anyone want to remap/chip their vehicle if there is an increased risk of a component failure?

Well, here is the point I am trying to make here. Car manufacturers must tune vehicles to cater to mechanically unsympathetic customers! This is very important. Drivetrains or engines (as an example) can fail when they are abused or raced from cold. It is this type of customer and not your average enthusiast that manufacturers are trying to protect themselves against, at least within the factory warranty period.

Furthermore, fuel quality is not guaranteed. Customers embracing remaps are more inclined to use higher-quality branded fuels and/or fuel conditioners, unlike the average user. Manufacturers have little control over this, so engines are tuned accordingly and with a little to spare regarding turbo pressure, air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, etc.

A combination of the above is why we see so many forced induction engines running rich from the factory. This and all of the above give reputable tuners the opportunity to liberate additional performance safely and improve MPG from engines under certain conditions.

If in doubt, stick with reputable tuners and tuning box manufacturers, as this helps ensure you receive a well-developed tune.

Also, bear in mind that even though normally aspirated engines can be remapped, the gains are minimal when compared to forced induction engines. It would also be prudent to notify your car insurance provider.

UPDATE: We were asked how ECU remaps, or Tuning Boxes can improve MPG?

With naturally aspirated petrol engines, mpg gains are marginal at best. Minor adjustments can be made to ignition timing and air/fuel ratios, but both power and mpg gains are minimal. This is the case with virtually all non-forced induction engines.

With turbo or supercharged petrol engines, power gains are usually very good with tangible but small MPG gains. MPG gains are two-fold on forced induction petrol engines. Many turbocharged engines run very rich from the factory under acceleration (open loop lambda). By carefully leaning out the air/fuel mixture under open loop conditions, fuel consumption can be reduced. This is more difficult with more modern engines that utilise wideband lambda technology. That said, most gains (if any) are achieved by improving the spread of torque across the rev range or, in particular, lowering it. If more torque is available lower in the rev range, less throttle is required to achieve the same level of accelerative effort. Of course, more fuel may be required to achieve the additional torque but lowering engine RPM more than compensates for this. And this is where diesel engines excel…

Turbo diesel engines – excellent power (torque) gains and potential mpg gains. Most mpg gains are achieved in turbo diesel engines by using the principle described above – making more torque available lower in the rev range. If you used to use 40% throttle but now only have to use 35% throttle to achieve the same accelerative effort, then you will most likely save fuel once the novelty of the extra power has worn off!

I hope that helps.

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