All posts by FTE

Mass Airflow (MAF) and Mass Air Pressure (MAP) Sensor Cleaning & Cleaners

January 10, 2014 FTE 8 Comments

A Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) measures the air entering an engine. It is important to measure air so the ECU can calculate the correct amount of fuel to inject into the combustion chamber to achieve the optimum air/fuel ratio. Because of the MAF’s important role, it should be attended to regularly, just as you would an air filter.

MAFs got their name because they are designed to calculate the entire mass of air rather than just the flow rate. This helps the ECU better respond to differences in air density, supported by Air Intake Temperature (IAT) sensors that measure air temperature and Mass Air Pressure (MAP) sensors that measure air pressure. Turbocharged engines, in particular, rely heavily on MAP sensors.

Together, these sensors provide valuable data to the ECU so that it can deliver correct turbo pressure and fuel injector timing regardless of conditions. When one of the sensors fails or starts to operate out of range, the ECU will take precautionary measures to protect the engine. This results in power loss and engine hesitation.

The most common MAF type is the hot wire. This pre-heated filament, when hit with air, cools and creates a change in electrical resistance. This subsequently changes the voltage signal (normally between 0 and 5 volts) sent to the ECU.

Over time, the hot wire on the sensor can accumulate debris, dust, and sometimes oil particulates, especially if an aftermarket filter or induction kit is fitted. The filter is typically coated with oil to trap fine dust. As a result, this oil and debris can make their way onto the sensor, affecting the accuracy of the airflow signal to the ECU. This can result in poor engine running, hesitation, increased emissions, reduced MPG, and so on.

MAP sensors are similar in that they accumulate deposits over time. Unfortunately, even the most modern ECUs cannot detect this degradation of performance. An error code or warning light will only appear if the unit has failed completely.

The solution is to clean the MAF and MAP sensor at each service schedule with a designated MAF cleaner. Standard electrical contact cleaners are also effective, but ensure they do not leave any residue. Also, remember that they usually contain a single basic solvent. In contrast, professional MAF cleaners have a blend of multiple solvents specifically for the type of debris that needs to be removed, making the job a little easier.

We recommend Archoil AR2810 MAF Cleaner, which contains 500ml of the best solvents available for precisely this task. It is also completely safe for all MAF and MAP materials and plastics, leaves absolutely zero residues, and is comparable in cost to basic contact cleaners when considering the size of the can.

Through research, Archoil discovered that customers were wasting product as MAF and MAP cleaning only required a few sprays. The latest version is now compatible with air intakes and EGRs so customers can clean the sensors as before and now use the remainder of the can to clean the EGR and Intake Plenum, ensuring zero waste.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Use offer code ‘MAF’ for 25% off when you purchase AR2810 through www.Powerenhancer.co.uk.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a MAF Cleaner?

An MAF Cleaner is an aerosol-based product used to clean and remove deposits from the Mass Airflow Sensors.

What is a MAF Cleaner made of?

MAF Cleaners are made of solvents and aerosol propellants. Cleaners using multi-solvents work best.

MAF Cleaner vs Carb Cleaner?

Not all carb cleaners are residue-free, so this is not recommended.

MAF Cleaner vs Brake Cleaner?

Do not use brake cleaner, as it may remain on the sensor. Removing the brake cleaner residue would then require direct contact or another solvent-based cleaner.

MAF Cleaner vs Contact Cleaner

Contact cleaner is usually just isopropyl alcohol, which will clean but not as effectively as a multi-solvent cleaner. It is also unsuitable for cleaning intake plenums, EGRs, etc.

Can I use MAF Cleaner on a MAP sensor?

Check with the manufacturer for compatibility. Most should be suitable as the manufacturing materials and plastics are similar. AR2810 can be used on both MAF and MAP sensors.

Can I use MAF Cleaner on a Throttle Body?

Potentially, yes, but cleaning performance will be limited if the cleaner uses basic solvents. AR2810 can be used to clean Throttle Bodies. Check suitability with the manufacturer.

How to Use MAF Cleaner?

Disconnect and remove the airflow sensor. Then, in a well-ventilated area, spray the filament wire in the sensor with small bursts until deposits are removed. It is important to not touch the wire directly. Allow the sensor to dry fully and then reconnect.

DPF Cleaning & Maintenance

DPF Removal to Become an MOT Failure

December 13, 2013 FTE 4 Comments

The MOT test for diesel vehicles is changing from February 2014. All diesel cars originally fitted with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) must have the DPF in place and operational during the MOT test. If it is missing, then the vehicle will fail the test.

The current test only examines emissions, but technicians will have to check that the filter is still present. What we don’t yet know is if this includes modified units. For example, many companies gut the internals, but the original DPF remains. We guess that the vehicle would still pass on the visual inspection.

Some claim that removal is illegal, citing that it contravenes the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation 61 A, as it no longer meets emission standards applied to it when new. However, this is not always the case, as there is growing evidence that DPF removal can lower emissions and even the hydrocarbon count. Many responsible owners have chosen to have the DPF removed from their car while using a combustion catalyst to reduce HCs further. The result is an engine that outputs less HC than when it had the original DPF fitted. Besides, have you ever been driving behind a diesel car undergoing a regeneration cycle? What is coming out of the exhaust?!

Then there are the substantial power MPG increases to be had.
The Minister for roads, Robert Goodwill quoted: “I am very concerned that vehicles are being modified in a way that is detrimental to people’s health and undoes the hard work car manufacturers have taken to improve emissions standards.

“This change to the MOT tests makes it clear – if you have this filter removed from your car, it will fail the test.”

A spokesperson from the Department for Transport told us that anyone who has had the filter removed would require a new one put back on their car to pass their next MOT test.

Ignorance is bliss. What is our view? As a responsible company, we want to see emissions reduced. We achieve this every day with specialist fuel modification technologies. While we accept and agree that DPF removal can increase hydrocarbon output, it is not always the case. When a customer with a blocked DPF approaches us for help, we give them the options, the pros and cons of each, so that they can make an informed decision. In-tank DPF cleaner versus Professional DPF clean versus DPF removal etc. If opting for removal, we advise using a product with an active combustion catalyst such as Oilsyn Diesel Race DNA or Archoil AR6900-D to lower the emissions. The result is lower HCs than before, additional power, improved MPG and no more black smoke from regular regeneration cycles.

Unfortunately, this choice has now been taken away from the consumer, which is a shame for those that modify emissions control components in a responsible way.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us and either I or a member of my team will be pleased to help.

Carbon Cleaning, EGR Cleaning & Maintenance

Importance of a Clean EGR

August 21, 2013 FTE 2 Comments

The subject of EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) systems comes up often, so I thought it was about time we explained further how a dirty EGR could affect performance, MPG, and exhaust emissions.
With our professional range of cleaners, we are confident that we can resolve a large percentage of the minor poor running issues (hesitation, poor idle, reduced performance, MPG, increased exhaust smoke, etc.) that our customers encounter. So where does that leave the other percentage? From our experience, faulty EGRs (due to deposit accumulation) and faulty sensors (the Mass Airflow being the most common) contribute to many running issues that professional fuel injector cleaners won’t resolve.

What is an EGR valve?

An EGR valve, or exhaust gas recirculation system, is a primary component of an engine’s emissions system on petrol and diesel-powered vehicles. Its purpose is to reduce NOx emissions by recycling a proportion of the combustion gases that normally exit through the exhaust. Recirculating some of the spent exhaust gases back into the engine is one way to reduce these harmful emissions, and this is done by using an Exhaust Recirculation System (EGR). The main component of this system is a valve that returns a proportion of the exhaust gases back into the engine to be mixed with clean air and fuel and then re-combusted.

The recirculated gases can be passed through air or water-type EGR Cooler. This, in turn, reduces the temperature of the gas, which reduces the charge temperature, that leads to an improved quality of combustion and engine power. In the case of a diesel engine, the recirculated proportion of gases can sometimes be as high as 50% under certain operating conditions.

Over time the EGR valve and associated pipework accumulate carbon deposits. These inhibit bypassed exhaust gasses back into the intake and play havoc with the fuelling. Thus we end up with hesitation, reduced MPG, and ironically, excessive emissions, particularly when the EGR is transitioning from open to close and vice versa. Unfortunately, modern electronics do not always recognize a faulty EGR except when the flow is entirely impeded, or there is an electronic fault with the control solenoid/actuator. What happens is that carbon builds up on the EGR valve itself, creating a resistance to the opening and closing of the valve. This vacuum-operated valve sticks and the solenoid that operates the vacuum has to work overtime to produce a sufficient vacuum to open the valve. An excess draw of current then trips the ECU warning light.

Carbon build-up cannot be avoided entirely as there is a natural and strong affinity between hydrocarbons and metal surfaces. The key is maintaining a manageable level of carbon build-up within the system and in quantities, the engine can naturally consume.

It is important to understand why carbon builds up in the first place and where it comes from. Contrary to popular belief, carbon build-up comes not just from fuel but also from engine oil. Oil can bypass engine rings, inlet valves and crankcase breather systems and then polymerise on intake and emission control system components as it recirculates. This creates a porous surface from which other oil vapor and excess hydrocarbons produced from the combustion process can then adhere and create further build-up.

Numerous solutions are now available ranging from aerosol sprays with accompanying fuel cleaner to pressurized detergents that are atomized into the intake and EGR system. The most effective way is a manual clean of the EGR valve and periphery pipework, but this is not always possible without significant labor time. It is also important to note that it is not always the valve that blocks up but the pipe leading from the EGR back into the intake. The hole(s) that leads into the intake are typically tiny and can block up easily. This then backs up to the valve.

Why do fuel cleaners struggle with EGR cleaning?

Fuel cleaning technology has come a long way, and carbon can be removed from most areas of an engine and emissions control system through fuel system cleaners. However, EGRs are notoriously difficult with this method. Here’s why:

There are four types of fuel-based EGR cleaners (1st three are added to the fuel).

1. Low-cost solvent-based cleaners that do very little other than clean the fuel injectors as the chemistry is destroyed during the combustion process.

2. Higher quality fuel system cleaners that use chemistries such as polyether amines to help remove combustion and post-combustion deposits, although most of it Is destroyed during the combustion process.

3. Patented molecules that are activated during the combustion process (rather than destroyed) are then carried in the recirculating gases. These molecules bond with the carbon, acting as a catalyst for its removal.

4. Solvent cleaners that are sprayed into the air intake and circulate through the intake system, EGR, combustion area, and out into the post-combustion areas, including the turbo and EGR again.

Product type 1 is useless. Product type 2 may have some effect if the carbons are mainly fuel related, but this process relies on heat. What happens is that such products improve the quality of the combustion to the degree that the cleaner exhaust gases will naturally scavenge and remove carbon from post-combustion areas. This is more workable in areas such as the turbo, DPF, CAT, etc., as heat is maintained. This cleaning mechanism is effective with HOT clean exhaust gases, but an EGR system is designed to cool the gases, reducing efficacy considerably. Furthermore, there has to be sufficient flow through the EGR system for this process to work. If it is blocked completely, then natural scavenging will not work.

On a side note, fuel additive manufacturers have been careful not to reveal the fact that combustion modification and improvement and the resulting cleaner exhaust gases can naturally remove carbon deposits! I remember one of our long-term test vehicles (Audi S8 4.2 TDI) having exhaust tips cleaner on the inside than on the outside, and I’m not kidding.

Product type 3 is similar to 2 and slightly more effective. Specific molecules in the fuel additive are dormant and become active during the combustion process. Carried through the recirculating exhaust gases, they bond to carbonaceous deposits. This acts as a catalyst to dissolve/remove the deposits to the combustion area, where they are then burned. However, like with product type 2, this method requires sufficient heat and airflow through the EGR system.

Product type 4 is the most effective as the solvents do not require heat to work and hit the target areas more easily. Again, if there is substantial oil build-up, then it is much more difficult to remove.

For information on products to clean the EGR system and keep it clean, read our article HERE.

EGR Cleaning & Maintenance

EGR Cleaning and EGR Cleaners

July 29, 2013 FTE 102 Comments

An EGR valve, or exhaust gas recirculation system is a primary component of an engine’s emissions system on petrol and diesel powered vehicles. Its purpose is to reduce NOx emissions by recycling a proportion of the combustion gases that normally exit through the exhaust. A valve is used to control the flow of gases, which are re-routed through the intake system, where they are re-combusted with fresh intake air and fuel. On a correctly functioning EGR system, this lowers undesirable exhaust emissions.

The problem with these systems, particularly diesel vehicles, is that excess hydrocarbons are produced during the combustion process. These hydrocarbons deposit themselves on the EGR valve and periphery pipework, where the EGR routes back into the intake system. Over time, this clogs and eventually blocks the EGR valve and the associated pipework.

Additional Source of Deposit Build-up!

It is important to note that the carbon buildup in an EGR system and other emission control components is not only from the combustion process. In most cases, it’s a combination of combustion-produced hydrocarbons and deposits from the crankcase oil. This is where many fail to correctly arrest deposit build-up on the EGR after it has been cleaned or replaced. More on this later…

The engine oil can bypass the piston rings, valve stem seals, and crankcase breather system (PCV). That oil is then consumed during the combustion process, but it isn’t fully combusted. The unburned oil and fuel are both recycled and deposited within the EGR. The oil will polymerize onto the metal surfaces due to the strong affinity between oil and metal. This newly formed surface acts as a “sponge” for all other particulates in the recirculating exhaust gases.

You have a combination of bypassed oil and unburned fuel deposited within the EGR system. This turns into a solid, which builds up and clogs the EGR valve and associated pipework, causing faulty operation.

If the EGR valve begins to stick or is blocked up, the solenoid used to operate it will draw more current to open it. The ECU detects that condition and throws an engine warning light.

The symptoms of a faulty EGR include:

Hesitation
Stumbling
Excessive emissions/smoke during acceleration
Engine warning lights

As deposits begin accumulating, this restricts the flow of gases and disturbs the fuel mixture. The ECU expects a certain amount of recirculating gases as the EGR valve transitions from closed to open and visa-versa. These gases are not delivered as anticipated, hence the air/fuel ratio disturbance. This can result in hesitation, stumbling, and excess emissions, particularly during acceleration.
Natural Carbon Removal

Now, there is a natural carbon cleaning mechanism, and most additive manufacturers won’t tell you this. Suppose you’re able to improve the quality of combustion and are thus able to produce cleaner exhaust gases during the combustion process. In that case, these cleaner exhaust gases will naturally scavenge and remove carbon. This is also the case with many emission control components attached to the exhaust system, such as the hot side of the turbocharger, catalytic converter, or a diesel particulate filter.

You can naturally clean these areas. Many additives you see on the market today are essentially just fuel system cleaners and combustion catalysts. They might be promoted and marketed as EGR cleaners, DPF cleaners, and so on, but they’re nothing more than fuel system cleaners. What they do is restore the efficiency of the fuel system and, by doing so, improve the efficiency of the combustion, which reduces hydrocarbon production. In addition, some products contain a fuel catalyst technology that in itself will lower the hydrocarbons produced. You’re left with cleaner exhaust gases, which will help naturally remove the carbon from these mentioned areas. Except for a few products that contain technologies where molecules are activated during combustion (more on this later), such cleaners do not directly clean these areas, as the chemistry is destroyed during the combustion process.

The Problem with Natural Removal and EGR Valves

This natural cleaning mechanism is not always effective when cleaning the EGR system. The reason for this is that when cleaning carbon from your engine, heat is the primary factor. There must be sufficient heat. Heat, combined with the cleaner, recycled exhaust gases, helps remove carbon. The problem with the EGR is that the gases are usually cooled when they reach the valve and the periphery pipework. Therefore, the natural cleaning mechanism is not always as effective with EGRs, so you have to take alternative action.

Alternative Cleaning for EGR Valves and Systems

Unfortunately, the most effective way to clean an EGR is to remove and clean it manually (if you have access to it). You’ll remove the EGR and the periphery pipework. Scrape off as much carbon as you can manually, then use a quality EGR aerosol cleaner to clean the remainder and reassemble the system.

If you don’t have easy access to the EGR valve, you can use an in situ aerosol-based EGR cleaner that you can either spray into the EGR pipework or through the air intake and clean the EGR this way. However, particularly with diesel engines, you must be very careful. You don’t want to damage the engine. If you’re in doubt, you should let a trained professional carry out this procedure for you.

Once the EGR is clean and operational, it is essential to take the steps necessary to prevent further carbon buildup. While you can never stop it completely, you can maintain a manageable level of carbon that the engine can naturally consume without the deposits becoming excessive. If you were to remove the EGR, you’d be looking for a fine layer of carbon that you can scratch off with your nail. Anything more than that would be considered excessive.

Maintain and Protect

1. Firstly, use a high-quality polyetheramine-based fuel system cleaner and carbon remover to ensure injector and combustion efficiency is restored. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a clogged EGR valve soon after. We recommend Oilsyn Diesel Dr/Petrol Dr or Archoil AR6400-P/AR6400-D MAX.

2. Secondly, you need high-quality engine oil and/or oil additive that helps prevent oil from bypassing the crankcase breather system or piston rings and polymerizing with the EGR system. You must tackle the problem from both the fuel system end and also the crankcase oil. I recommend a high-quality oil additive pack such as Archoil AR9200 or AR9400. These have been shown to prevent polymerization and even remove carbon from these areas in some cases.

3. Thirdly, and particularly if most of your driving is short or start/stop, use a high-quality ongoing fuel additive containing an effective combustion modifier or fuel catalyst. We recommend Oilsyn Diesel Power DNA, Petrol Power DNA, or Archoil AR6900-D MAX / AR6900-P MAX. These will improve the combustion quality and lower the amount of hydrocarbons being produced and thus recycled through the system, especially when the engine is in its warm-up cycle. Most of the time, you’ll only use a little bit of the product at a time, and a single bottle will last for multiple tanks of fuel.

Get Out and Drive

Finally, it’s important to make you aware our view is that most of today’s vehicles are commonly mis-sold. They are simply not designed for the short journeys that many people use them for – around town driving, shopping runs, school runs, etc. If the vehicle is not permitted to get up to temperature frequently, hydrocarbons will inevitably be produced and deposited throughout the system.

Because of the lack of heat, it will be challenging for the engine and the emissions control components to naturally manage carbon within the system. Therefore, using the correct oil, fuel, and fuel additives is essential to keeping the engine running efficiently.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of my team or I will be pleased to help.

Oilsyn and Archoil products can be purchased from http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk

Fuel Saving

MPG Drop With Winter Diesel Fuel Change

May 30, 2013 FTE 6 Comments

A few years back, our customers sought advice on poor fuel economy during winter months, particularly with diesel-powered vehicles. This phenomenon is easily explainable. The reason is that many fuel companies around the colder parts of the world, the UK being one of them, switch fuels during winter. This usually occurs in the UK around November.

This is necessary because it provides greater protection against gelling and waxing, typically providing additional protection of up to minus 15 degrees centigrade, as opposed to the standard minus 5 degrees during colder spells. The downside is that this fuel usually has a lower BTU (energy) value than the summer equivalent. This results in less energy being produced during the combustion process, and thus your engine requires more right foot to attain the same level of accelerative or cruising effort.

There isn’t an immediate solution other than to use a high-quality combustion modifier or fuel catalyst additive to help maximize the energy capability of the fuel. No additive can increase the BTU of fuel, but you can ensure you get the most out of it and ensure it’s not wasted in the form of excess emissions or particulates. Also, diesel engines are more susceptible to carbon build-up during winter months as the engine takes longer to get up to temperature, which can ultimately lower the MPG.

A diesel additive with combustion improvers can provide a much cleaner burn (even during engine warm-up conditions) with the added benefits of cleaning and lubricating the fuel system, preserving the fuel, and protecting against water and other contaminants.

If you have any questions regarding this article or require assistance, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Fuel Addtives

Do Fuel and Oil Additives Really Work?

May 30, 2013 FTE 19 Comments

Firstly, we need to understand what is meant by “work” as there are conflicting ideas and interpretations. Some would consider “work” to improve performance or increase mpg, whereas others would consider “work” to clean the fuel system, restore fuel injector efficiency or reduce friction. Others would consider a product to have “worked” if it resolved an underlying problem, such as resolving engine hesitation, restoring lost performance, or reducing excessive emissions.

So which is correct? Firstly you need to understand how additives work and what they really do:

Fuel additives directly deliver one or more of the following:

1. Clean the fuel system and restore injector efficiency
2. Remove combustion deposits
3. Help clean emissions control system components
4. Lubricate the fuel system and combustion area
5. Protect against chemical or biological contamination
6. Preserve fuel and offer cold weather protection
7. Improve the quality of combustion (catalyst)
8. And so on.

The above direct actions then may or may not result in:
1. Increase in power and torque
2. Increase in fuel economy
3. Smoother running engine
4. Smoother idle
5. Reduced exhaust emissions
6. Less mechanical vibration or noise
7. And so on.

Can you see the difference? The point I am making here is that an increase in performance or mpg is typically the resultant benefit of cleaning a fuel system, engine or reducing friction. They should not always be considered as the direct aims of fuel or oil additives. The usual goal of additives is to rid the fuel system and combustion area of deposits and, thus, from these actions, restore any lost performance or MPG. Further combustion modification (catalysts) can then improve MPG further.

We often see the expectations with additives mismanaged. If a vehicle were achieving an expected and realistic 50 mpg, one would then be disappointed to discover when they purchased and used a fuel cleaner that the MPG didn’t improve if they had purchased the cleaner to improve MPG. There has to be a degradation of fuel economy in the first place. To improve MPG up and above what the engine is designed to deliver on standard pump fuel, you need to use additives designed to improve combustion and thus maximize the energy output of the base fuel, not a cleaner.

Therefore, to resolve any confusion, most fuel additive cleaners do not directly increase economy or performance. Modern detergents remove debilitating deposits and thus restore fuel system and combustion efficiency. This may or may not increase fuel economy or engine performance. It depends on what you started with. Highly quality additives with effective fuel catalyst technology can then marginally increase MPG over standard figures, depending on the quality of base fuel being used.

Symptoms can also be mechanically related. A user may inadvertently use a cleaner or additive to resolve what is, in fact a mechanical or electrical issue. This is not necessarily bad as additives can be used as a low-cost process of elimination. However, when using additives to resolve problems, it is important to understand the symptoms and, thus the probability of these symptoms being resolved through “chemical” means. Additives are not mechanics in a can.

Furthermore, a successful cleaning cycle does not automatically result in a smoother, more performant, or more economical engine. Different engine designs respond to deposits in different ways.

Many cleaners (not all) work by restoring performance and MPG. Time and time again, we see customers purchasing one-shot cleaners to improve MPG on an engine running well and achieving the expected MPG with the hope that it would magically improve fuel economy. Now, if you purchased the cleaner to maintain a clean system, then this is valid. Still, we see the expectations of many customers mismanaged when it comes to what they were expecting versus what they should reasonably expect versus what products really do and how this translates into discernible improvements to their vehicle.

The best advice we can give is for you to understand your requirements and goals concerning fuel, fuel additives, and lubricants. Don’t purchase additives on a whim or hope they may fortuitously effect some change, as this is a surefire way to disappointment. Work out what you are trying to achieve: rectify a running issue, protect the fuel system or engine, maintain a clean running system to prevent future problems, reduce wear, increase power, improve fuel economy, improve fuel quality, or many of these combined, etc. Then complete your own research or consult with a professional to match the correct products for your needs with an understanding of what the products actually do and how this translates into measurable results for you.

To summarise, there are legitimate circumstances when additives offer genuine benefits (when chosen correctly and matched to actual requirements) and other times when they become a waste of money. They become a waste of money when users misunderstand what they are actually buying versus what they are trying to achieve.

In the follow-up article, we are going to break this down further by revealing why results can be so inconsistent when using additives so that you can make an informed decision as to whether your vehicle will benefit or not from their use. We will also reveal some pitfalls, the concept of Negative versus Positive Gain, and testing protocols so that you, a consumer, mechanic or fleet operator, etc., can accurately measure your MPG improvements.

If you require any expert advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of my team or I will be pleased to help.

Fuel Addtives

Should Fuel Additives be Added to an Empty Tank?

May 20, 2013 FTE 10 Comments

I am often asked how and when fuel additives should be added. With an empty or full tank of fuel? Should I wait until it’s down to a quarter of a tank? Etc.

The reality is that it doesn’t matter how much fuel is currently in the tank. The key is to ensure that regardless of the current fuel level, whether nearly empty or three-quarters full when you administer the additive, fill up on top immediately afterward.

Doing so will ensure that none of the fuel additive becomes trapped in the filler neck. Filling up on top afterward will ensure that the entire additive is washed down into the tank. Furthermore, most additives require diluting with a full tank of fuel hence filling up immediately afterward is necessary.

Some feel uncomfortable with the inconvenience of using additives at the gas station. For this, we suggest filling up with fuel and a 5-liter jerry can. Drive home, put in the additive, and then top up with fuel from the jerry can. If you live close to the gas station, don’t entirely fill the tank to the top; leave a little for the additive and fuel from the jerry can.

Contrary to popular belief, additives do not need to be added before filling up with fuel to mix. This is only necessary with fuel storage tanks. Most additives mix instantly anyway, and a moving vehicle provides sufficient agitation to complete this process.

If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of my team or I will be pleased to help.

Engine Oils

Best Synthetic Motor Oil

May 25, 2011 FTE Leave a comment

Synthetic motor oils have been around since World War II, although they were mainly used in the aviation industry back then. It wasn’t until decades later that the automotive sector pulled its finger out and started incorporating synthetic technology into the engine oil. Although more expensive, there is no doubt they offer much more significant benefits than conventional mineral oils for most automotive applications.

We will not bore you with Ester this or PAO that because it doesn’t have to be complicated; after all, the role of oil is to lubricate, cool, clean, and protect, and the best synthetic motor oils have one quality that makes them stand out from all other kinds of oil: they satisfy these four criteria very well. They can also withstand higher operating temperatures without breaking down while remaining effective at lower operating temperatures.

So you are looking for the best synthetic motor oil? Well, it doesn’t exist. What might be suitable for one engine may not be ideal for another, but we are discussing extremes here. Also, there are many similarities when comparing the highest quality synthetic blends. Many revered brands exist, such as Fuchs, Amsoil, Motul, Rock Oil, Millers, Mobil 1, Castrol, Red Line, and so on. However, it is vital that you trust the brand/supplier and then ensure that you choose the correct specification, approval, and viscosity for your engine, whether standard or modified.

Does a shear point difference of 180 versus 185 degrees matter when the oil temperature never exceeds 110 degrees, even during the most spirited driving? The very best engine oils exceed the recognized standards anyway. Our advice is if you want the best, gain trust in a brand and choose the best that the brand has to offer for your particular engine.

Why this approach? Being in the trade, we know what goes on firsthand behind the scenes. The consumer is oblivious, but we will reveal some truths because it’s one big con. This may upset a few, but we would be remiss if we told it to you any other way.

1. A £50 or $50 gallon of oil probably contains around £5 or $5 worth of ingredients.

2. There are strict controls on what base stock and additive pack you can use in order to meet the specifications set out by the vehicle manufacturer. This means that most approved and “meets the spec” engine oils are very similar or even identical in some cases.

3. This means an oil manufacturer can’t improve on many of these oils without blending out of spec, because they are limited on base stocks and must use the same additive pack as everyone else.

4. This means most approved oils are THE SAME, regardless of brand. It is just one big marketing competition!

5. Many oil specifications are inferior by design, and vehicle manufacturers want to keep it that way. Oil companies are trying to find ways to improve oils while still staying within the specs, but it is almost impossible when you are restricted to using the same additive pack as your competitors. This is why many now supply non-approved oils, which are superior to the approved range.

Remember, it’s a marketing competition, not a product performance competition. The best engine oil technology is reserved for specialist applications such as motorsport.

Again, if you are looking for the best motor oil, our advice is to research, gain the trust of a reputable brand, and ensure that you purchase from a legitimate vendor that will provide you with honest and accurate advice on the best oil for your particular engine needs.

Engine Oils

What is the Best Motor Oil – Our View

April 4, 2011 FTE Leave a comment

Motor oil is used to lubricate, cool, and protect. It lubricates the moving parts and keeps your engine clean and cool by absorbing and dissipating some heat generated through friction and the combustion process. Its additive pack is also designed to collect particulates and other contaminants and transport them to the oil filter.

To understand the best motor oils for your car, you need to know different oils and what they can do for or to your engine. Quality of oil will mean other things to different people, but the better you know your engine and how it works, the easier it is for you to identify the best motor oil for your engine.

There are synthetic motor oils, synthetic blended motor oils, and regular motor oils. You need to know the difference and the attributes of all three.

Let’s have a look at synthetic motor oils. They can withstand greater temperatures while remaining stable. They are the best motor oils concerning protection and lubricity capability. They are generally better at reducing friction. They have one weakness – they can penetrate and leak more easily, but only on much older vehicles. They are also expensive, but on the upside, and depending on the quality of the additive pack, they have a longer change cycle. You can usually keep the oil in your engine for a more extended period before it needs changing. Being the best, they are widely used in performance vehicles and long-life service intervals, where the demands on oil are far greater.

Blended synthetic motor oils are blends of synthetic and regular mineral oils. This means that they have picked the best qualities of both oil types. They are usually a good compromise and the best motor oil for mid-range vehicles as they offer a good compromise between protection and cost. They can endure the more demanding driving conditions while not costing the earth. The fact that they are blended also brings down their price. Because of the mix with mineral-based oil, the risk of leakage you would get with synthetic motor oil is significantly reduced. Still, again, this only applies to older vehicles.

Lastly, we have regular mineral oil. This is considered the most inferior kind of engine oil on the market. They are, of course, the cheapest and are generally more suited for the much older or specialized vehicle. They are more susceptible to leaving the sludge behind in the crankcase. This is because they break down much easier than their synthetic counterparts.

When choosing the best motor oil, you’ll find many brands in the market. There are prominent stand-out brands as well as lesser-known ones. The key is ensuring that they satisfy the relevant SAE, API tests, etc., and are suitable for your vehicle. Check with the owner manual and choose a suitable oil based on its suitability (specification-wise), how often you change the oil (synthetic for more extended changes), and the type of driving you do.

As for the best, look for authentic, fully synthetic (PAO, Ester) base stocks with the latest nano additive packs.

Biodiesel & Biofuels

What is Biodiesel and Biodiesel Production

April 4, 2011 FTE Leave a comment

Fuel prices are rising daily, making operating even at a domestic level more expensive. Anything that uses petroleum or associated products has become more expensive. The only alternative is to look for a source of fuel that is renewable and, at the same time, cheap. So far, biodiesel, a biofuel, seems to be the answer.

Biodiesel is a kind of fuel that’s made from plant and animal oils. Plants are preferred because their production is easier and cheaper than animals. On a commercial scale, the most used are soybeans, sunflower seeds, canola, and other recycled vegetable-based oils.

Biodiesel production seems to be gaining popularity because it’s generally a cheaper and more efficient way of powering up and because it’s more environmentally friendly with fewer pollutants. Some tests have shown emissions to be nil.

It also has a positive effect on reducing the level of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. Fossil fuel emissions produce plenty of these and are “allegedly” responsible for much of the climate damage present today.

Producing biodiesel is an easy enough process so long as you obtain the correct equipment and necessary materials. As an individual, it wouldn’t be unwise to start thinking about how to make this a part of the way you power your life; the more fossil fuels deplete, the more expensive they will become.

Biodiesel, on the other hand, is relatively cheap to produce. The only thing that might cost you is the initial capital to buy the equipment, but after that, the materials you will use are cheap and easily obtainable. The supplier usually dictates commercial biodiesel costs based on where and how much he sources his raw materials.

You will not need to change your engine if you plan to start using biodiesel, providing it is fortified with the correct additives. Most engines today are compliant, although you should get a warranty that covers biodiesel use. There are advantages to your engine for using biodiesel; it is a great lubricant, but it is important to blend it correctly and fortify it with the correct additives to improve flow, protect against gelling and waxing, raise cetane, correct pH, and improve the combustion quality.

Biodiesel Production Process

The process involves chemically altering the molecular structure of organic oils. It requires a catalyst and alcohol. The organic oil is heated to a specific temperature to initiate the chemical reaction, and then the catalyst and the alcohol are added.

They are then mixed for a while and left to settle. The resulting oil will be in several layers. The topmost is biodiesel, which at this stage is called an ester.

The lower layers contain soap and glycerine. This layer facilitates separation. The soap and glycerine are drained, and the biodiesel is purified and dried. It is then filtered to remove any particulate matter before it is ready to use.

Equipment for making biodiesel has come on a long way; it is now highly automated, and you can create high-quality biofuel faster and more efficiently.

You can have your equipment custom-made depending on your needs, or you can purchase DIY using kits with instructions that are downloadable from the net for free. It’s best to start small, so you can fully understand the process. If you’re going to buy a processor, estimate your needs. It will determine the size of the processor that you will buy. They range from £500 to several thousand pounds. You will pay around £200 for a DIY kit, but kits for more complex systems will cost you more.

Microwave technology has now been incorporated into processors to make the process faster and improve the quality of the final product. It also makes it more energy efficient than the older biodiesel production because the chemical process is shorter.

It is the future. Ensure the fuel is fortified with the correct additives and can outperform standard pump fuel.

Fuel Addtives

Are Fuel Additives Safe?

March 10, 2010 FTE 102 Comments

Due to an increasing number of inquiries concerning fuel additive safety and vehicle manufacturers’ propaganda, I updated this article. Below is V2.0.

Are fuel system cleaners and fuel additives safe for my engine?

This is a question I am asked all too often, and I would like to put your mind at rest from the outset. From my experience and testing, I have yet to find a commercial fuel-based engine cleaning product that has caused any short-, medium-, or long-term damage to a fuel system or engine when used per the manufacturer’s instructions. Sure, many products are poor quality or don’t deliver as promised, but the main commercial ones I have tested are at least safe to use. This includes engines with superchargers, turbochargers, the latest particulate filters, and high-pressure fuel systems. There are rare stories of failures or issues, but in all cases I have examined, they resulted from an underlying problem unrelated to additive use.

Please note that this is not a license for you to put any rubbish in your fuel tank! I only recommend cleaners using effective and proven ingredients. Providing the recommended dosages are not seriously abused, the cleaners I recommend are no more dangerous than the fuel itself. Some forget how corrosive gasoline is!

Please note that this article is about the safety of additive use, not efficacy. I’m sure many are aggrieved with some additives’ performance and spurious claims, but that is a different conversation for another day.

Let’s look at this in more detail and help fill that void. Do you know the difference between standard and premium pump diesel fuels? Additional detergent package (usually DW-10 tested) and 2- Ethylhexyl Nitrate (2-EHN) cetane booster – that’s all. 2-EHN is the worldwide standard for raising cetane. DW-10 is the primary injector dirty-up and clean-up test procedure for measuring the performance of diesel fuel detergent packages in Europe.

Now let’s examine a diesel conditioner I routinely recommend for some diesel applications – AR6900-D MAX

It contains:

Latest DW-10 proven detergent package
2-EHN
Ester diesel fuel system lubricant
Combustion improver
Corrosion inhibitor etc.

All proven and tested functions.

Reputable fuel conditioners use no-harms tested ingredients. These ingredients and functions undergo rigorous testing to ensure they are safe for their intended applications.

As demonstrated above, some of what you find in diesel conditioners are already in premium fuels, except with additives; you pay less and get much more for your money.

Many diesel conditioners, including the AR6900-D MAX, are designed to comply with the EN 590 specification for diesel fuel. In other words, EN 590 pump diesel + AR6900-D MAX is still EN 590 compliant. You are still using the fuel the vehicle manufacturer has stipulated you must use for that engine. This makes it much more difficult for manufacturers to blame additive use for a running or mechanical issue, although some still do so when given the chance.

There are many other products too: Wynns, STP, Millers Ecomax, Redex, Cataclean, Liqui Moly, Forte, BG, and so on. Although they vary in efficacy, none of them will harm the engine.

Sometimes there is a lot of negativity with additives because of a misunderstanding of the ACTUAL functions and benefits or the overt misselling compounded by ridiculous claims. There are correct circumstances for additive use and times when they are simply unnecessary. Again, this is a different subject for another day (See the do additives work article).

There is also the risk of not using additives. Ask one of the thousands of satisfied customers (not just ours) who have used quality cleaners to resolve running issues, warning lights, power loss, engine cutouts, etc. Ask them which is safer, fuel cleaner, or engine jumping into a limp-home mode during an overtake maneuver. A bit dramatic, I accept, but still valid.

There are now a good proportion of fuel systems and engines that are MORE at risk from not using a quality regular-use fuel conditioner (or periodic system clean), or at least using premium fuel, to help give the fuel system and emission control systems a fighting chance.

Rarely does a day go by that I don’t receive a request for help from someone who doesn’t use additives, and now the fuel system, engine, turbo, EGR, DPF, or a combination of these is causing running difficulties.

So what about the Main Dealers?

This too, is very simple – draconian thinking and revenue protection. Unlike in the US and other parts of the world, manufacturers (fronted through their main dealers) have a vested interest in maintaining a “replace with new policy.” For example, suppose the main dealer plugs in their diagnostics computer and registers a faulty diesel fuel pump or faulty injectors. In that case, they must advise the customer that a new pump or injectors are required.

I have seen a bill for almost £ 3,000 to supply and fit four new diesel injectors for one of our customers! The fact that injectors and pumps can be reconditioned, or that a good-quality cleaner will resolve the problem 80% of the time, is irrelevant. Main dealers have little choice, and they risk falling out of favor with the manufacturer or worse, losing their franchise if they deviate from the “replace with new” policy. If you accidentally stained the carpet, would you replace it without trying to clean it first?

Another reason is risk mitigation. Manufacturers and dealers are simply protecting themselves from customers who may foolishly put a harmful substance in the fuel tank, i.e., bleach (and I’m not joking) or putting fuel additives in with the oil or vice versa. Hence, a straightforward “no additives” policy.

Last but not least, you’ll be surprised to learn that many manufacturers already use additives. That’s right, but only when it suits them. For example, a prominent European petrochemical company provided an aggressive fuel system cleaner to a well know European vehicle manufacturer because they were facing hundreds of thousands of potential warranty claims from carbon build-up on diesel fuel injectors. The additive was administered to all affected engines on a recall or during the next scheduled service, and customers were none the wiser.

So why is it different in other countries? Unlike in the UK, the US main dealers have a strong influence over the manufacturers. In many cases, the main dealer will call the shots. Unfortunately, the UK and the EU, in general, are a bit behind.

Fortunately, the law is on our side (one of the few advantages of being in the EU), and we are starting to witness a change with manufacturers and franchised dealers. It is doubtful that a dealer would even know you were using an additive unless you told them as it takes serious equipment to detect additives. You are at greater risk of a dealer refusing a warranty claim due to using contaminated (untreated) fuel than using an additive to fortify the fuel or clean the system.

I hope this helps clear up the matter for our customers. If you require any advice or help, please don’t hesitate to contact us, and a member of our team will be pleased to help.

DPF Cleaning & Maintenance, Fuel System Cleaning

Product Advice Page

March 20, 2009 FTE 294 Comments

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